Nizwa: the mud fortress where Oman reveals its Bedouin soul

Nizwa was the capital of Oman before Muscat took its place. It rises at the centre of the al-Dakhiliyah oasis, at the foot of the Jebel Akhdar mountains, and for centuries has been the religious, cultural and commercial heart of the country. Today it is a city of 70,000 inhabitants that has kept its character intact: the circular fort, the traditional souq, the goat market.

The Fort and the Souq

The Fort of Nizwa, built in the seventeenth century by Imam Sultan bin Saif, has a circular tower thirty metres in diameter — the largest on the Arabian Peninsula. From the top, the view sweeps across mountains, palm groves and the Friday mosque. The adjacent souq is a labyrinth of shops selling Omani silver (khanjar, traditional daggers with horn handles), ceramics, dates, frankincense and halwa (the national sweet, a spiced jelly).

The goat market

Every Friday morning, from seven to ten, the square beside the fort becomes a livestock market: goats, sheep and cattle are auctioned off using a system of calls and gestures unchanged for centuries. It is a social event before it is a commercial one — men in white dishdasha drink Omani coffee (with cardamom and rose water), exchange greetings, haggle. There is not a tourist in sight.

The wadis and mountains

The surroundings of Nizwa are spectacular. Wadi Tanuf is a gorge where water flows between rock walls and palm trees. Jebel Akhdar (the «Green Mountain») rises to 3,000 metres and conceals terraces cultivated with roses (the Jebel Akhdar rose is famous for the rose water extracted from it) and stone villages perched on the edge of the canyon. Wadi Bani Khalid, further east, has emerald-green natural pools for swimming.

Practical information

From Muscat: 1.5 hours by car. Oman requires an electronic visa (easy to obtain online). Renting a car is the best way to explore — the roads are excellent. Guesthouses in Nizwa and on Jebel Akhdar start from 40 euros. Ideal period: October to March (Omani winter, mild temperatures). Summer exceeds 45°C. Omani cuisine is based on rice, meat, dates and cardamom — shuwa (lamb cooked underground for 24 hours) is the ceremonial dish.