Vardzia, the cave monastery carved into the Georgian rock

A few dozen kilometres from the Turkish border, in a valley carved by the Mtkvari river, the tufa wall of Mount Erusheti conceals one of the most astonishing places in the Caucasus. Vardzia is not a simple cave nor a single hermitage: it is a rock-cut complex spread over several levels, made of cells, passages, cisterns, refectories and chapels hewn directly into the rock. It dates back to the Georgian medieval period and was also conceived as a defensive refuge, well hidden behind the face of the mountain.

The heart of the complex is the Church of the Dormition, whose walls preserve frescoes that have withstood the centuries and the earthquakes. Walking along the dim corridors you realise how self-sufficient this community was: channels for water, rooms for storing wine, spaces designed to live for months without descending to the valley. Light filters in from the openings in the rock and frames, below, the green of the valley and the course of the river.

Compared to better-known destinations of Caucasian tourism, the flow here remains modest. You arrive from Akhaltsikhe or from the town of Aspindza, on roads crossing a bare, silent landscape. It is worth setting aside at least half a day, climbing calmly among the levels and pausing at the panoramic points. Bring water, shoes suited to uneven paths, and respect for the sacred spaces, which are in part still an active place of worship.

To avoid the few organised groups, aim for the early morning or late afternoon hours, and for the in-between seasons. Spring offers the valley in bloom, autumn warm colours and mild temperatures; summer is hotter and busier, winter atmospheric but harsh. In any season, Vardzia rewards those who arrive with slowness and silence.

Getting there

Vardzia lies in the south of Georgia, in the Samtskhe-Javakheti region. The reference town is Akhaltsikhe, from which a paved road, passing the Khertvisi junction, leads all the way to the site; the connection is made by car, by taxi or by marshrutka (minibus). From the airports of Tbilisi or Kutaisi you should allow several hours of travel towards the interior.