Jerash — The Pompeii of the Middle East

Jerash: Rome in the heart of Jordan

A little over an hour's drive from Amman, tucked into the green hills of northern Jordan, lies one of the best-preserved Roman cities in the world — and one of the least known. Jerash, ancient Gerasa, was founded by soldiers of Alexander the Great in the fourth century BC and reached its peak splendour under the Roman Empire, when it became one of the cities of the Decapolis, the league of ten Hellenistic centres of the eastern Mediterranean. Today its ruins rival those of Pompeii and Ephesus, yet receive a fraction of the visitors.

Hadrian's Arch and the Hippodrome

The entrance to the archaeological site is theatrical: Hadrian's Arch, thirteen metres high, was erected in 129 AD to celebrate Emperor Hadrian's visit to Gerasa. Beyond the arch opens the hippodrome, a Roman circus 245 metres long where chariot races and gladiatorial combat once took place. Today, during the tourist season, the RACE company (Roman Army and Chariot Experience) stages re-enactments with armoured legionaries and horse-drawn chariots — kitsch but entertaining.

The Oval Plaza

The heart of Jerash is the Oval Plaza (Forum), an elliptical space 90 by 80 metres surrounded by 56 Ionic columns. Nothing quite like it exists in any other Roman city in the world — the oval form is an architectural enigma, probably designed to connect the Cardo (the north-south axis) harmoniously with the Temple of Zeus. At the centre, a modern column supports a ceremonial flame lit each year during the Jerash Festival of Culture and Arts, a programme of music, dance and theatre that turns the ruins into a stage.

The Cardo Maximus and the temples

From the Forum extends the Cardo Maximus, the city's main street, eight hundred metres long and paved with limestone slabs still bearing the grooves of ancient cart wheels. On either side open shops, monumental fountains (nymphaea) and crossroads with the two decumani. The columns — hundreds of them, many still standing — create a perspective that takes your breath away.

On the crest of the western hill rises the Temple of Artemis, the city's most important sanctuary, dedicated to the patron goddess of Gerasa. The eleven Corinthian columns, twelve metres tall, are among the most imposing in the Middle East. A trick that local guides demonstrate with pride: slipping a spoon between the base of a column and its plinth, you can see — and feel — the column sway imperceptibly, designed to absorb the earthquakes that periodically strike the region.

The theatres

Jerash had two theatres. The South Theatre, the larger, could seat three thousand spectators and is so well preserved that concerts and performances are still held there during the summer festival. The acoustics are perfect: a coin dropped at the centre of the orchestra can be distinctly heard from the back row. The North Theatre, smaller, was probably used for political assemblies (bouleuterion). Both deserve a long, unhurried pause to absorb the grandeur of the space.

Modern Jerash

The modern city of Jerash (60,000 inhabitants) stands beside the ruins and offers an authentically Jordanian experience, far from the tourist industry of Petra. Local restaurants serve mansaf (lamb with rice and fermented yoghurt), maqluba (inverted rice with vegetables and chicken) and the finest hummus in the region. Jordanians are famous for their hospitality: do not be surprised if a passer-by invites you in for tea.

Practical information

Getting there

From Italy, fly to Amman (AMM – Queen Alia International Airport) with direct flights from Rome and Milan (Ryanair, Royal Jordanian, around 4 hours). From Amman, Jerash is reached in about an hour by public bus (from the Tabarbour terminal, 1.5 JOD ≈ €2) or taxi (€20–25). It works perfectly as a day trip from Amman or as a stop on an itinerary including Petra, Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea.

When to go

March–May and October–November are the best periods: mild temperatures (20–28°C), clear skies and ideal light for photography. Summer is hot (35–40°C) but manageable early in the morning. Winter can be cold and rainy.

Budget and tips

- Jordan Pass: purchase the Jordan Pass online before your trip (70–80 JOD, roughly €90–100). It includes the entry visa, access to Jerash, Petra (1–3 days) and over 40 other sites. It is the most cost-effective way to visit Jordan.

- Daily budget: around €50 — hotel in Amman €25–40/night, full meal €5–8, transport €5–10.

- Guide: official guides at the entrance of Jerash offer 2-hour tours (around 20–25 JOD). Well worth it: without explanations, many architectural details pass unnoticed.

- Time to allow: plan at least 3–4 hours for the site. Arrive early in the morning to avoid the heat and organised groups.

- Combination: Jerash pairs perfectly with Ajloun (Crusader castle, 30 minutes away) in a single day.

Jerash is proof that Rome's legacy does not end at the Mediterranean. Here, on the edges of the desert, Rome built a city that two thousand years later continues to astonish — and that, unlike its more famous sisters, still allows you to walk among the columns in an almost surreal solitude.