Instead of San Gimignano: Certaldo, Boccaccio's Town of Towers and Medieval Lanes

Certaldo: authentic Tuscan Middle Ages

San Gimignano and its medieval towers draw over 3 million visitors a year to a borgo of barely 7,000 inhabitants. The result is predictable: clogged streets, souvenir shops selling tinned wild boar and an experience that retains nothing medieval except the scenery. Less than 15 kilometres away, Certaldo preserves the same medieval heritage in a silence that feels like a miracle.

Certaldo Alto: the suspended borgo

The upper part of Certaldo, known as Certaldo Alto, is a perfectly preserved medieval borgo reachable by a panoramic funicular or on foot along a paved road. Once at the top, you find yourself in a grid of red-brick lanes, medieval palaces and towers that inevitably recall San Gimignano — but without the crowd. Here it is possible to stroll in solitude even at the height of summer, to stop and read a book on a bench overlooking the Val d'Elsa and to feel the wind blowing through the battlements.

What to see

- Casa di Giovanni Boccaccio: the great author of the Decameron was born (probably) and certainly died in Certaldo in 1375. His house-museum is a tribute to Italian literature and offers a magnificent view from the tower.

- Palazzo Pretorio: the palace of medieval power, decorated with the ceramic coats of arms of the vicars who succeeded each other over the centuries. It houses 15th-century frescoes and temporary exhibitions.

- Church of Santi Jacopo e Filippo: Boccaccio is buried here. The Romanesque church in red brick is a perfect example of medieval Tuscan religious architecture.

- Via Boccaccio: the main street of the upper borgo, flanked by medieval tower houses. In the evening, lit by lanterns, it seems to have stepped straight out of a tale from the Decameron.

- Mercantia: every July, Certaldo Alto becomes the stage for the international street theatre festival, with performances, jugglers, musicians and artists from around the world. A magical event that is worth the trip in itself.

The red of Certaldo

Certaldo is known for its dominant colour: the red of the bricks that make up every building in the upper borgo. This chromatic unity creates a unique atmosphere, especially at sunset when the walls glow with warm hues. But the red of Certaldo is also that of the cipolla rossa, a Slow Food Presidium, a sweet and versatile variety that local restaurants use in soups, jams and even ice cream.

Where to eat

In Certaldo you eat the true Tuscan peasant cuisine. Ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, crostini di fegatini and bistecca are prepared exactly as tradition demands. Osteria del Vicario, in the hotel of the same name set in a former 12th-century convent, is a gastronomic and atmospheric experience you will be unlikely to forget. A full lunch with Chianti wine costs 25–35 euros per person.

Getting there

Certaldo is on the Empoli–Siena railway line, with frequent regional trains. From Firenze SMN, the journey takes about an hour with a change at Empoli. From Siena, about 40 minutes direct. By car, the Firenze–Siena dual carriageway has an exit at Poggibonsi Nord, then 15 minutes on a provincial road. San Gimignano is just 13 km away, making it possible to visit both in a single day and appreciate the contrast.

When to go

Spring and autumn are the best seasons: green or golden hills, mild temperatures, borghi almost empty. July deserves a visit for Mercantia (usually the third week of the month). Winter has the charm of misty Tuscany, with few tourists and welcoming osterie.

Certaldo is not the budget alternative to San Gimignano: it is the authentic version. It is the Tuscan Middle Ages without the filter of mass tourism, where the towers are not a selfie backdrop but testimony to a living history. Boccaccio already knew: the best stories are told far from the crowd.