Instead of Florence: Pistoia, Tuscany's Overlooked Little Masterpiece

Pistoia: Tuscan art without the Florentine crowds

Florence is an open-air museum, but it is also a textbook case of overtourism: three-hour queues for the Uffizi, impassable pavements around the Duomo, a historic centre where residents are now a minority. Just 35 minutes away by train, Pistoia offers the same artistic and architectural quality in a liveable setting where tourism has not yet cannibalised daily life.

Why Pistoia deserves a visit

Pistoia was Italian Capital of Culture in 2017, a recognition that shone a spotlight on an extraordinary artistic heritage. The city boasts an intact medieval historic centre, Romanesque churches of rare beauty and a cultural tradition stretching from the Middle Ages to contemporary art. But above all, Pistoia is a living city: the artisan workshops are open, the Wednesday and Saturday markets fill the square with colours and aromas, and in the evenings the people of Pistoia still go out for their passeggiata along the corso as they always have.

What to see

- Piazza del Duomo: one of the most beautiful squares in Tuscany, with the Cathedral of San Zeno, the 14th-century Baptistery and the Palazzo dei Vescovi. The silver altar of San Jacopo, inside the cathedral, is a masterpiece of medieval goldsmithing with over 600 figures.

- Ospedale del Ceppo: the Della Robbia frieze on the façade is one of the jewels of the Tuscan Renaissance. The Seven Works of Mercy in glazed terracotta rival any work in the Uffizi.

- Basilica della Madonna dell'Umiltà: the dome designed by Vasari is the third largest in Tuscany, after the Duomo of Florence and the Duomo of Pisa.

- Pistoia Zoo: one of the best zoos in Italy, perfect for families, with conservation programmes recognised at European level.

- Marino Marini Collection: the great Pistoian sculptor left his city a heritage of works that can be admired in the Palazzo del Tau.

Underground Pistoia and surroundings

A guided tour takes visitors beneath Underground Pistoia, a system of corridors and chambers beneath the ancient hospital, used for centuries as washhouses, canals and cellars. In the surrounding area, the Pistoia mountains offer chestnut forests, borghi such as Cutigliano and Abetone, and the historic Porrettana railway that crosses enchanting landscapes.

Where to eat

Pistoia is a land of robust flavours. Carcerato, a local beef stew typical of the area's tradition, can be found in the trattorie in the centre. Confetti di Pistoia have been famous since the Middle Ages. For an authentic Tuscan lunch, seek out the osterie around Piazza della Sala, the old covered market where in the morning vegetables and cheeses are bought and in the evening local wine is drunk.

Getting there

Pistoia is on the Florence–Lucca–Viareggio railway line: regional trains every 20–30 minutes, 35 minutes from Firenze SMN, fare around 5 euros. By car, the A11 motorway (Pistoia exit) connects it to Florence in 40 minutes. The location is strategic: Lucca is 45 minutes away, Pisa an hour, the Garfagnana an hour.

When to go

Pistoia is beautiful all year round. Spring is spectacular for the flowering of the nurseries (Pistoia is Europe's largest plant nursery district). Summer brings the Pistoia Blues Festival, which has hosted legends such as B.B. King and Bob Dylan. Autumn is perfect for the colours of the Pistoia mountains and the chestnut harvest. At Christmas, the centre comes alive with markets and nativity scenes.

Pistoia does not ask to replace Florence: it simply asks to be seen. And once seen, it is hard to forget. It is the Tuscany that Tuscans actually live, far from tour operators and whistle-stop itineraries. It is the Tuscany that one falls in love with.