Cycling Sardinia's Interior: Into the Heart of the Barbagia

The Barbagia by bicycle: pedalling through Sardinia's secret heart

When people think of Sardinia they picture white sand beaches and turquoise waters. But the island's heart beats elsewhere, on the Barbagia plateaus where the mountains of the Gennargentu protect an ancient world of millenary holm-oak forests, solitary nuraghi and stone borghi where the elders still speak Logudorese Sardinian. Cycling through the Barbagia is an experience unlike any other in Italy: the roads are deserted, the panoramas grandiose, and the hospitality is that of a land which has always regarded the coast and its tourists with a measure of suspicion.

The itinerary: 150 km in 4 days

Day 1: Fonni – Desulo (35 km)

You set off from Fonni, Sardinia's highest municipality at 1,000 metres above sea level. The town is a good base for acclimatising: it has a small supermarket, a couple of bars and an atmosphere that recalls the Apennines more than a Mediterranean island. The road to Desulo climbs and dips through pastures and oak forests, with views stretching as far as the eastern sea on clear days. At Desulo, a mountain borgo famous for producing chestnuts and hazelnuts, you sleep at one of the agriturismi offering dinner with their own produce.

Day 2: Desulo – Aritzo – Tonara (40 km)

The most demanding stretch in terms of elevation, with two significant climbs. From Desulo you descend to Aritzo, an old summer resort with a fine schist historic centre and an ethnographic museum. From Aritzo you climb again to Tonara, famous throughout the island for its artisanal nougat. The nougat-makers' shops are open year-round and it is worth taking a few pieces away with you. The road passes through the Uatzo Forest, one of Europe's most extensive holm-oak woodlands.

Day 3: Tonara – Sorgono – Atzara (40 km)

From Tonara you descend towards Sorgono, where the old Trenino Verde track offers an alternative gravel route (feasible only with an MTB or gravel bike). Sorgono is a good resupply point with shops and a pharmacy. You continue to Atzara, a borgo that guards a unique winemaking tradition: Mandrolisai, a robust red produced from a blend of Bovale, Cannonau and Monica that is found nowhere else. The local cellars sell bottles for a few euros.

Day 4: Atzara – Laconi – Nuraghe Arrubiu (35 km)

The final stage descends gradually southward. At Laconi, the Parco Aymerich is a green oasis with waterfalls and caves set within a baronial estate. You continue to Nuraghe Arrubiu, Sardinia's largest nuraghe with five towers and a bastion of red stone that justifies its name (arrubiu means red in Sardinian). The site receives few visitors and can be explored at leisure.

Practical information

Difficulty and recommended bicycle

A medium-to-difficult route due to the total elevation gain (approximately 2,500 metres spread over 4 days) and some demanding climbs. Roads are paved but often narrow and winding. A gravel bike or MTB with light gearing is recommended. An e-bike is a wise option for those not used to climbing. Important: there are no bike shops in the Barbagia interior — bring a complete repair kit.

When to go

The ideal months are May, June, September and October. Summer is warm but more bearable than on the coast thanks to the altitude. Winter is cold with potential snow above 1,000 metres. Spring brings the flowering of cistus; autumn offers forest colours and the Mandrolisai harvest.

What to bring

• Generous water supply (at least 2 bottles): fountains are not everywhere
• Energy food for the stretches between services
• Complete repair kit including a spare tyre
• Layered clothing: the temperature swings between day and night are considerable
• Cash: several establishments do not accept cards

Where to stay and eat

Every village has at least one agriturismo or B&B. Prices are the lowest in Sardinia and the quality of the food is exceptional: culurgiones, porceddu, fresh pecorino, home-made pane carasau. You often dine with your host's family, in a convivial atmosphere that has no equivalent in organised tourism. Book at least a day in advance, as the places are small.

How to get there and logistics

Fonni is reached by car from Nuoro (30 km) or from Cagliari (two and a half hours). Public transport in Sardinia's interior is limited: ARST buses connect Nuoro to the Barbagia borghi but with reduced timetables and no guaranteed space for bicycles. The most practical solution is to arrive at Nuoro with your bike (ferry from Civitavecchia or Livorno to Olbia, then train to Macomer and bus) or to rent locally. In Nuoro, Cicli Ferreli can rent MTBs and gravel bikes. Bring enough cash: ATMs are only available in the larger centres such as Sorgono and Tonara.

Why cycle through the Barbagia

Cycling the Barbagia is not for everyone: the climbs are real, services are scarce, and those in search of comfort would do better to stay on the coast. But for those who accept the challenge, the reward is a journey through a Sardinia that seems to belong to another century, where the tourist is still a guest and not a customer, and where in the evening, after a day's pedalling, you eat seated at a wooden table with a view over the oldest mountains in Europe.