Skip Siena: Montepulciano, Renaissance Tuscany with Noble Wine

Montepulciano: the Tuscan gem that Siena keeps from you

Every year millions of tourists pour into Siena to admire Piazza del Campo, the Duomo and the medieval alleyways. But just sixty kilometres to the south-east lies a small town that holds the same Renaissance beauty, the same Tuscan charm and a quality of life that Siena has lost under the weight of mass tourism. Montepulciano is the best-kept secret of southern Tuscany.

Why choose Montepulciano

The difference is felt the moment you pass through Porta al Prato, the borgo's main entrance. Where in Siena you would find queues of tourists with selfie sticks, here you walk among elderly locals chatting outside the bar and shopkeepers who greet you by name after your second visit. Montepulciano is still a living town, not an open-air museum.

- Lower costs: a night in an agriturismo with a view over the Val d'Orcia costs 40% less than a hotel in central Siena.

- Outstanding food and wine: the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG is one of Italy's great reds, and the cellars can be visited without booking months in advance.

- Renaissance architecture: Piazza Grande rivals any Tuscan square, with the Palazzo Comunale that recalls Palazzo Vecchio in Florence.

- Strategic position: midway between the Val d'Orcia and Lake Trasimeno, it is a perfect base for exploring two regions.

What to see in Montepulciano

The heart of the town is Piazza Grande, one of the most harmonious Renaissance spaces in Italy. Facing onto it are the Duomo, with Taddeo di Bartolo's celebrated triptych, the Palazzo Comunale with its panoramic tower, and the Palazzo Contucci, where you can taste Vino Nobile directly in the historic cellar on the ground floor.

Walking down the Corso, the main street that runs through the borgo from north to south, you will encounter artisan workshops, wine shops and noble palaces. Do not miss the Chiesa di San Biagio, a masterpiece by Antonio da Sangallo the Elder, standing alone on a meadow at the foot of the hill: a centrally-planned Renaissance temple that is worth the journey on its own.

Cinema enthusiasts will recognise many corners of the town: scenes from New Moon in the Twilight saga were filmed here, and the borgo has served as a set for numerous Italian and international productions.

Vino Nobile and the cellars

Montepulciano is above all a wine town. Vino Nobile, produced exclusively from Sangiovese grapes (known locally as Prugnolo Gentile), was the first Italian wine to receive DOCG status in 1980. The historic cellars are cut into the tufa beneath the streets of the centre: visiting the ancient underground chambers of Contucci, De' Ricci or Ercolani is a unique experience.

Every year, on the last Sunday of August, the Bravio delle Botti is held: a race in which the eight districts compete by pushing eighty-kilogram barrels up the town's steep streets. It is Montepulciano's answer to the Palio, but without the outrageous prices and grandstands booked a year in advance.

Where to eat

Montepulciano's cuisine is Tuscan in its most genuine form. Pici, hand-rolled fresh pasta, are the signature dish: try them all'aglione (a tomato sauce with Valdichiana garlic) or with chianina ragù. The Trattoria Diva e Maceo in the centre offers traditional dishes at honest prices, while Osteria Acquacheta is the temple of Florentine-style T-bone steak. For a gourmet experience, the restaurant La Grotta, opposite San Biagio, combines creative cuisine with a breathtaking view.

How to get there

Montepulciano is reached by car from the A1 motorway (Valdichiana exit) in around twenty minutes. By train, the nearest station is Chiusi-Chianciano Terme, connected by local buses. From Siena, the drive takes about an hour along the beautiful road that crosses the Crete Senesi and the Val d'Orcia.

When to go

The best months are April–May and September–October, when temperatures are mild, the colours of the Tuscan countryside are at their peak and tourist numbers are manageable. Summer is pleasant thanks to the altitude (605 metres), but August is the busiest month because of the Bravio delle Botti. Winter offers a different kind of appeal: morning mists over the Val d'Orcia and deserted cellars where you can taste wine in perfect peace.