Skip Santorini: Milos, the Greek Island Without the Hordes

Milos: the Cyclades as They Used to Be

Santorini has become synonymous with the Greek sunset, but the reality for those who visit today is far removed from the postcard: thousands of cruise passengers pouring into Oia every evening, Dubai-level prices for a room with a caldera view, restaurants where you will not hear a word of Greek. Milos, in the same Cycladic archipelago, offers everything Santorini promises — volcanic landscapes, white-washed villages, crystal-clear water — but with an authenticity its famous neighbour lost long ago.

An Island Sculpted by Fire

Milos is of volcanic origin, and this has created a coastal landscape without equal in the Mediterranean. The island counts over seventy beaches, each with a different geology. Sarakiniko, with its wind-smoothed white rocks that look like a lunar landscape, is probably the most photographed beach in Greece — yet here you will never find the crush of Perissa or Kamari on Santorini. Kleftiko, reachable only by boat, is a system of caves and natural arches in turquoise water where pirates once hid.

What to See and Do

- Sarakiniko — Surreal white rocks above cobalt-blue sea. Arrive early in the morning to enjoy it almost alone.

- Kleftiko — An unmissable boat excursion through sea caves, rock arches and emerald waters.

- Plaka — The island's capital, a labyrinth of blue-and-white alleyways with a sea view that rivals Oia — without the hundreds of selfie sticks.

- Christian Catacombs — The oldest in Greece, second in importance only to those in Rome.

- Syrmata of Klima — Ancient boat shelters carved into the rock and painted in vivid colours. The most photogenic village in the Cyclades.

- Sulphur Mines — An abandoned industrial site on the coast that looks like a film set.

The Unmissable Beaches

Beyond Sarakiniko, Milos offers Firiplaka with its golden sand and red cliffs, Tsigrado accessible only via a ladder in the rock (a small hidden paradise), Paleochori with its geothermal fumaroles bubbling up through the sand, and Firopotamos, a tiny fishing village with crystal-clear water. The geological variety is such that each day you can discover a beach of a different colour: white, red, black, gold.

Where to Eat

The cuisine of Milos reflects its soul as a fishing island. In Adamas, the main port, the taverna O! Hamos! serves traditional dishes with local ingredients: grilled octopus, pitarakia (fried cheese rolls) and the island's speciality, local cheese wrapped in fig leaves and cooked over embers. In Pollonia, Gialos serves the freshest fish straight from the owner's boat, with your feet almost in the water.

How to Get There

Milos has a small airport with daily flights from Athens (about 45 minutes). By ferry from Athens (Piraeus), the journey takes about 3.5 hours on the fast catamaran or 7 hours on the traditional ferry. The island is small enough to explore by rental car in a week, but a motorbike or quad is sufficient for getting around comfortably.

When to Go

The best period is May–June and September–October, when temperatures are pleasant (22–28°C), the sea is warm enough for swimming and the island has not yet reached its summer peak. July and August are busier (but still infinitely quieter than Santorini), with the meltemi wind freshening the hottest days.

The Final Comparison

Santorini receives almost 3 million visitors a year on an island of 76 km²; Milos welcomes a fraction of that on a similar area. This is the island where the eponymous Venus (the Venus de Milo, now in the Louvre) was discovered by a farmer in 1820. It is an island that gave the world an absolute masterpiece of classical art and that continues to offer beauty — without asking you to surrender your sanity in the traffic of Fira in return.