Skip Mykonos: Naxos, the Authentic Cyclades

Naxos: the Largest and Most Genuine of the Cyclades

Mykonos has become the symbol of hedonistic tourism in the Greek islands: beach clubs with three-figure entry fees, twenty-euro cocktails, DJ sets pounding until dawn and an island where the ratio of tourists to residents has reached unsustainable levels. Naxos, the largest of the Cyclades, is the exact opposite: an island where farmers still grow potatoes in the volcanic soil, shepherds produce extraordinary cheeses in mountain huts and the beaches — kilometre after kilometre of them, sandy and wide — can be enjoyed without booking a sunbed weeks in advance.

The Portara and Chora

The first impression of Naxos is the Portara, the monumental gateway of Apollo's unfinished temple that dominates the islet of Palatia at the entrance to the harbour. At sunset, framed against a fiery sky, it is one of the most beautiful views in Greece — and you can enjoy it for free, sitting on the rocks, with no admission ticket. Behind the Portara spreads Chora, the island's capital: a labyrinth of white alleyways with blue doors, artisan workshops, tavernas and the Venetian Kastro at the top, with its noble towers still inhabited.

What to See and Do

- Portara — The gateway of the Temple of Apollo, the island's icon. Not to be missed at sunset.

- Chora and the Kastro — The historic centre with the Venetian quarter, the archaeological museum and Byzantine churches.

- Mountain villages — Apiranthos (the "marble village"), Filoti, Halki with its Venetian towers and the distillery producing kitron (citron liqueur).

- Mount Zas — The highest peak in the Cyclades (1,004 m). The hike to the summit crosses Mediterranean landscapes and offers a view over the entire archipelago.

- Temple of Demeter at Sangri — A 6th-century BC temple, partially reconstructed, in a rural valley off the tourist circuit.

- Kouros of Flerio — Unfinished marble statues from the 7th century BC abandoned in the quarry, viewable for free among the olive trees.

The Beaches

Naxos's beaches are probably the best in the Cyclades, and certainly the most extensive. Agios Prokopios and Agia Anna are long stretches of golden sand with turquoise water and shallow bottoms, perfect for families. Plaka extends for kilometres without interruption — walk far enough south and you will be completely alone. Mikri Vigla is the paradise of windsurfing and kitesurfing, with constant wind and perfect waves. Alyko, in the cedar reserve, is wild and unspoiled.

Cheese, Potatoes and Country Cooking

Naxos is the agricultural island of the Cyclades, and its cuisine reflects this richness. Naxos graviera cheese has PDO status and is famous throughout Greece: aged and slightly sharp, it appears in every taverna. Naxos potatoes are considered the best in Greece (yes, potatoes are taken seriously in Greece). Kitron, the citron liqueur produced only here, can be tasted at the Vallindras distillery in Halki. In the tavernas of Chora, order the patatato (beef stew with potatoes) or grilled fish with a salad of local tomatoes — the flavours are genuine and the prices honest.

How to Get There

Naxos has a small airport with daily flights from Athens (40 minutes). By ferry from Piraeus, the journey takes about 4 hours on the fast catamaran or 5–6 hours by regular ferry. From Mykonos, a fast ferry takes less than an hour — anyone who wishes to can easily combine the two islands. The island is large and a vehicle is needed to explore it: a rental car or motorbike is the best choice.

When to Go

May–June and September–October are the ideal periods. Spring is green and flowering (a rare thing in the Cyclades), autumn is mild with the sea still warm. Summer is ventilated by the meltemi, which makes hot days bearable and the waves perfect for water sports.

The Comparison That Matters

Mykonos offers world-class nightlife — if that is what you are looking for, there is no alternative. But if you are looking for Greece — the real one, with the scent of wild thyme, the sound of goats on the paths and the warmth of a taverna where the owner brings you the dish he cooked for his own family — Naxos is the island for you. It is large enough that you never feel cramped, rich enough to offer something new every day, and authentic enough to bring you back year after year.