Skip Bruges: Ghent, the Flemish Middle Ages Still Alive

Ghent: the City Bruges Wishes It Could Be

Bruges is enchanting — nobody would deny it. But its historic centre has become an open-air museum where residents are fewer and fewer and chocolate-and-lace shops for tourists more and more. It is a city you visit, but cannot live in. Ghent, a mere thirty minutes by train, has the same medieval Flemish heritage but with a contemporary soul that makes it infinitely more interesting: it is a university city, multicultural, with an avant-garde gastronomic scene and a nightlife that Bruges cannot even imagine.

The Medieval Heart

The panorama from Saint Michael's Bridge is one of the most spectacular in Europe: in a single glance you take in three medieval towers — the Cathedral of Saint Bavo, the Belfort and the Church of Saint Nicholas — aligned in a perspective that seems designed for a postcard. But unlike Bruges, this beauty is not embalmed: the canals are navigated by residents' boats, the squares host real markets, and in the medieval streets galleries, breweries and vegetarian restaurants stand side by side.

What to See

- The Ghent Altarpiece (Adoration of the Mystic Lamb) — The Van Eyck brothers' masterpiece in the Cathedral of Saint Bavo. One of the most important paintings in the history of art, now displayed in a climate-controlled case with perfect lighting.

- Gravensteen (Castle of the Counts) — Medieval fortress in the city centre with a collection of torture instruments. Yes, it is macabre, but also fascinating.

- Graslei and Korenlei — The two quaysides overlooking the Leie river, with the facades of medieval guildhalls. At sunset, with a beer in hand on the Graslei, you will understand why Ghentians love their city.

- STAM — City museum housed in a medieval abbey, telling the story of Ghent in an interactive and modern way.

- Design Museum — From Art Nouveau to the contemporary, a collection that reflects the city's creative vocation.

- Street art in Werregarenstraat — An alleyway entirely covered in legal graffiti that changes its appearance every week.

Vegetarian City and Gastronomy

Ghent was the first city in the world to introduce a weekly "vegetarian day" (Donderdag Veggiedag, Thursday veggie). This commitment is reflected in a gastronomic scene where vegetarian and vegan restaurants are excellent and widespread. But fear not: Ghent is also the home of waterzooi, the creamy fish or chicken stew that is the Flemish national dish. To try it authentically, go to Pakhuis or the Groot Vleeshuis, the ancient medieval butchers' hall turned gourmet food hall.

When it comes to frituur (chip shops), Ghent takes the matter very seriously: the historic chip shops serve real Belgian frites double-fried in beef fat, with dozens of sauces. And the beer? The city has its own historic brewery, Gruut, which produces beers without hops using an ancient blend of herbs.

Nightlife and Festivals

Thanks to its 70,000 university students, Ghent has the most vibrant nightlife in Flanders. Overpoortstraat is the student bar strip, but for something more sophisticated there is the Patershol neighbourhood with its breweries in medieval cellars. In July, the Gentse Feesten (Ghent Festival) is the largest street festival in Europe: ten days of music, theatre, art and celebration that draw the whole city in.

How to Get There

Ghent lies on the main Brussels–Bruges railway line: 30 minutes from Brussels, 30 minutes from Bruges. From Brussels Midi (where Thalys and Eurostar trains arrive) trains depart every 15 minutes. The city is compact and easy to navigate on foot or by tram.

When to Go

Spring is luminous and the canals are at their finest. Summer is perfect for the Gentse Feesten (July) and open-air terraces. Autumn offers the best light for photographing the medieval facades. Winter is evocative with the Christmas market, more intimate and less commercial than the one in Bruges.

Bruges or Ghent? The Answer Is Easy

Bruges is a jewel kept under glass; Ghent is a jewel worn every day. If you want the perfect canal-and-swans photograph, Bruges is unbeatable. If you want to experience a Flemish city with art, food, beer and a soul that still beats, Ghent has no rivals.