Lefkara: The Cypriot Lace Village That Legend Links to Leonardo da Vinci

The Lace That Captivated Leonardo

In the hills of the Troodos range, at the heart of Cyprus, a village of white limestone houses and red-tiled roofs guards a craft tradition reaching back to the Middle Ages — one that, according to legend, enchanted even Leonardo da Vinci. Lefkara — or more precisely Pano Lefkara, the upper village — is world-famous for its lacework (lefkaritika) and silversmithing, both recognised by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage.

Legend has it that Leonardo visited Lefkara in 1481, during a journey to Cyprus, and purchased a lace tablecloth for Milan Cathedral. Whether the story is true or not is a matter of debate, but Lefkara lace — with its geometric patterns embroidered on white linen with cotton and silk thread — is of extraordinary beauty and complexity, and the women of the village still produce it today, seated outside their front doors with needles and frames that pass from generation to generation.

What to See

The Lace Streets

Walking through the cobbled lanes of Pano Lefkara, you will see the village women seated on doorsteps with their embroidery frames on their knees. This is not a tourist staging: it is the daily life of a village where lace is part of identity. Stop to talk with the embroiderers — many speak some English or Italian — and admire the precision of their work. The shops along the main street sell lacework of every size, from doilies to tablecloths, with prices that reflect the hundreds of hours of manual labour involved.

The Silversmiths' Workshops

The other craft tradition of Lefkara is silversmithing. The village's craftsmen work silver according to techniques handed down over centuries, producing jewellery, cutlery, religious icons and decorative objects. The workshops are concentrated in the lower part of the village and are worth a visit simply to watch the artisans at work.

The Church of the Holy Cross (Timios Stavros)

The village's medieval church houses, according to tradition, a fragment of the True Cross brought to Cyprus by St Helena, mother of Emperor Constantine. The interior is richly decorated with Byzantine icons and frescoes. The Feast of the Holy Cross (14 September) is the most important day of the year for the village.

The Museum of Lace and Silversmithing

The small local museum tells the history of Lefkara's two craft traditions through tools, historic samples and photographs. Particularly interesting is the section on the geometric patterns of the lace, which scholars have linked to Venetian, Byzantine and even Arab influences.

The Surrounding Landscape

Lefkara is surrounded by hills covered in olive trees, almond trees and carob. Trails leaving the village cross an intact Mediterranean landscape where time seems to have stood still. The Lefkara dam, a few kilometres from the village, offers an artificial lake ringed by hills ideal for picnics and walks.

What to Eat

• Halloumi — Cyprus's quintessential cheese, grilled until golden. The hand-made version from Troodos villages is incomparably better than the industrial kind.
• Loukoumades — Cypriot doughnuts, small golden spheres coated in honey and cinnamon, crispy outside and soft within.
• Kleftiko — lamb slow-cooked in a clay oven until it falls apart: the most celebrated dish of Cypriot cooking.
• Commandaria — Cyprus's sweet wine, one of the oldest in the world (produced for at least 5,000 years), which the Knights of St John called the wine of kings.

The village's tavernas serve Cypriot meze — a procession of small dishes that can run to twenty courses. Lefkarama Tavern and To Platanos offer traditional cooking in shaded courtyards.

Getting There

Lefkara is about 40 kilometres from Larnaca and its international airport (LCA). By car: about 40 minutes via the A1 motorway and then the mountain road. From Limassol: about 50 minutes. From Nicosia: about 1 hour. There is no regular public transport to Lefkara: a hire car is essential for exploring the Cypriot interior. Driving is on the left (a British legacy).

When to Go

March to May and September to November are the ideal periods. Spring sees the village surrounded by almond blossom and the countryside at its most glorious. Autumn brings mild temperatures and the grape harvest. Summer (June to August) is very hot (35–40°C) but evenings are pleasant thanks to the altitude (around 600 m). Winter is mild but rainy. Lefkara is proof that Cyprus is not only beaches and resorts: the island's interior conceals villages of a beauty and authenticity that the coast lost long ago.