Stilo — the Byzantine Cattolica and a Medieval Borgo

Stilo: where Byzantium meets Calabria

On the Ionian coast of Calabria, clinging to the flank of Monte Consolino, Stilo is a borgo that few know but no one forgets. Its Cattolica — a small 10th-century Byzantine church, a UNESCO World Heritage candidate — is one of the most refined monuments in all of southern Italy. Yet Stilo remains off the mainstream guides, granting those who make it here the privilege of an authentic discovery.

What to see in Stilo

The Cattolica

You reach it by climbing a narrow lane from the borgo centre, between prickly pears and dry stone walls. Then suddenly, on a natural terrace overlooking the valley, the Cattolica appears: five cylindrical domes on a cubic body of red brick, a masterpiece of Byzantine architecture that seems transported from Cappadocia. The interior is tiny but powerful: four Roman spolia columns support the domes, and on the walls fragments of frescoes survive depicting saints and Madonnas with vast, fixed eyes in the Eastern iconographic tradition. Light filters through narrow slit windows creating a mystical atmosphere.

The medieval borgo

Stilo was the birthplace of Tommaso Campanella, the philosopher of the City of the Sun, born here in 1568. His birthplace, in a narrow alley in the historic centre, is marked by a plaque. The 14th-century Duomo, with its fine Gothic portal, merits a visit. Climb to the ruins of the Norman castle on Monte Consolino: the effort is rewarded by a panorama sweeping the Stilaro valley all the way to the sea. On the way up you will encounter the rock church of San Nicola da Tolentino, carved from the cliff face.

The Bourbon ironworks

In the valley below, along the Stilaro river, lie the remains of the Ferriere Borboniche di Ferdinandea: an 18th-century proto-industrial complex where iron extracted from local mines was worked. It is a fascinating and little-visited site, surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation, that testifies to a surprising and entrepreneurial Calabria.

What to eat

The table in Stilo is that of the Ionian mountain Calabria, generous and spicy:

- Fileja — the quintessential Calabrian fresh pasta, hand-rolled on a knitting needle and dressed with 'nduja and tomato

- Capretto alla stilese — kid baked in the oven with potatoes, peppers, and oregano from the Consolino

- Zippuli — leavened dough fritters, often with anchovies or ricotta, typical of feast days

- Stilo limoncello — made from lemons grown in the terraced gardens of the borgo

In the small restaurants of the centre you eat for a few euros, in generous portions with ingredients from the surrounding kitchen gardens.

Getting there

Stilo lies on the SS110 in the Ionian hinterland, about 150 km from Reggio Calabria and 130 km from Catanzaro. By car take the SS106 Jonica to Monasterace, then climb about 15 km inland. The most convenient railway station is Monasterace-Stilo, on the Ionian line, from which the borgo is reached by taxi or infrequent bus. Lamezia Terme airport is about two hours away. Your own or a hire car is strongly recommended.

When to go

The best months are April, May, June, September, and October: ideal weather for walking through the borgo and climbing to the Cattolica without suffering from the heat. In summer temperatures can be demanding, but the evenings are enlivened by piazza life. At Easter one of the most heartfelt processions in the Locride takes place. Winter is quiet and evocative, with Monte Consolino often wrapped in low cloud.

In the vicinity

The coast around Monasterace offers quiet sand and shingle beaches. At Monasterace Marina lies the archaeological park of ancient Kaulon, with one of the largest floor mosaics in Magna Graecia. Inland, the Serre Calabresi offer beech forests and hiking trails in the Parco Naturale Regionale delle Serre.