Nuraghe Losa: the basalt keep on the Abbasanta plateau

A few metres from the SS131 trunk road, in the heart of the Abbasanta plateau, opens an expanse of dark stone dotted with mastic shrubs and dry-stone walls. Here, where the wind strokes grass scorched by the sun, rises Nuraghe Losa: a tower of basalt blocks that seems to grow out of the earth itself. Thousands of drivers pass beside it every day without knowing what that low profile on the horizon conceals.

Losa is a complex nuraghe, built around a central keep with a three-lobed plan, protected by an outer wall and a further ring of walls. The oldest part, the central tower, is dated to the second half of the second millennium BC, while the bastion and outer wall belong to later phases. To walk its covered corridors, climb the internal stairs up to the terrace and look out over the plateau from up there is an experience that restores the full weight of time.

What strikes you is the silence. Unlike the great archaeological sites on the coast, here there is no queue and no jostling elbow to elbow with other visitors. You can pause in the tholos chamber, observe the perfect fit of the stones laid without mortar, and hear only the sound of the wind. The site is managed and looked after, with a small welcome centre and information material that helps you understand what you are seeing.

Visiting Losa means choosing inland Sardinia, the rural Oristano area of quiet villages, cheeses and lightly travelled roads. It is best to arrive early in the morning or in late afternoon, when the raking light brings out the dark grain of the basalt. Spring and early autumn are the best times: mild temperatures and green countryside, without the summer sultriness.

Going to Nuraghe Losa is also a small gesture of responsible tourism. Supporting inland sites eases the pressure on overcrowded seaside spots and brings value to areas that have so much to tell and few visitors to listen.

Related guides: Sardinia off the beaten track: inland villages and little-known destinations.

Getting there

Nuraghe Losa stands on the Abbasanta plateau, in the heart of Sardinia. It is very convenient to reach by car because it lies right beside the SS131 Carlo Felice, with a dedicated signposted exit ('Nuraghe Losa') between Oristano and Macomer. The nearest railway station is Abbasanta, a short distance from the site; the reference airports are Cagliari-Elmas, Alghero and Olbia.