Tiscali and the Valle di Lanaittu in the Supramonte
In the Sardinian Supramonte, between Oliena and Dorgali, a Nuragic village hides inside a limestone doline reachable only on foot. The Valle di Lanaittu is a canyon that few visit outside the beach season.
Foto: Roberto Mura (CC BY-SA 4.0) — Wikimedia Commons
Sardinia in summer is sea, beaches and crowds. But its limestone interior, the Supramonte between Oliena and Dorgali, is another planet: white rock, centuries-old holm oaks, deep canyons and an almost absolute silence. In the midst of this rugged landscape hides one of the island's most evocative places, the Nuragic village of Tiscali, built inside a great doline, that is, a natural chasm formed by the collapse of a cavern's roof. For millennia it remained invisible from the outside, and even today you can only reach it on foot, after a walk that is already an experience in itself.
The route
The most used starting point is the Valle di Lanaittu, a wide karst valley that opens up in the heart of the Supramonte, studded with caves, springs and ancient sheepfolds. You arrive at the valley floor on a dirt road, then leave the cars and begin to climb. The trail ascends the slope leading to the Tiscali doline, in a succession of rock steps, stretches among the holm oaks and passages where you also need to use your hands. Once you reach the opening in the mountain, you descend into the doline and find yourself facing the remains of the Nuragic huts set against the walls, beneath the collapsed roof: a breathtaking place, outside of time. The Valle di Lanaittu, all around, also holds other treasures, such as some of the most important karst caves and springs on the island, and it deserves to be explored calmly.
The effort
The hike isn't very long in kilometres, but it's more demanding than it seems. The terrain is made of limestone rock, often slippery and uneven, with steep stretches and passages where you need care in placing your feet. It's not a stroll: you need trekking shoes with good soles, sure legs and caution, especially on the descent. The elevation gain to reach the doline is modest but concentrated, and under the summer sun the effort increases greatly. Waymarking in the Supramonte is scarce and the environment is wild: it's easy to lose the trail. For this reason, especially for those who don't know the area, relying on a local guide is the wisest choice, as well as a way to discover stories and details that would otherwise escape you. Alternatively, a GPS track and detailed map are indispensable.
When to go
The best months are April, May and October. In these periods the temperatures are cool and the Supramonte isn't yet, or is no longer, the furnace it becomes in summer, when the heat on the white rock makes the walk genuinely hard. Spring also brings the scents of the Mediterranean scrub in bloom, while autumn offers golden light and clear air. Above all they are the months when the tourists are elsewhere: those who come to Sardinia at the height of summer go to the sea, and here in the interior you walk in peace. Outside the beach season the Valle di Lanaittu and Tiscali go back to being what they are, a secret corner visited by a few enthusiasts.
Nature and history
To reach Tiscali on foot is much more than visiting an archaeological site: it's understanding how the ancient Sardinians chose the mountain as refuge and defence, hiding their own lives within the folds of the rock. The appeal of the place lies precisely in this interweaving of nature and history, in the contrast between the harshness of the Supramonte and the fragility of the huts nestled within it. To walk in the Valle di Lanaittu, among caves and springs, is to immerse yourself in one of the most important karst landscapes of the Mediterranean, a world that most of the island's visitors don't even suspect exists.
A practical tip: carry with you all the water you need, because along the route there's no way to resupply and the heat of the rock dehydrates you fast. Set off early in the morning, even in the shoulder seasons, to walk in the best light and avoid the hottest hours. Check the access conditions to the Valle di Lanaittu beforehand, because the dirt road and the arrangements for entering the site can vary. And move with respect: the Supramonte is a fragile environment, sacred in the island's memory, to be crossed on tiptoe.
Practical guides for Todi
Practical info
When is the best time to visit Tiscali and the Valle di Lanaittu in the Supramonte?
The recommended time is April, May and October, when it is less crowded.
Where is Tiscali and the Valle di Lanaittu in the Supramonte?
Tiscali and the Valle di Lanaittu in the Supramonte is located in Supramonte of Oliena-Dorgali, Sardinia.
