Tiscali, the Nuragic village hidden inside a mountain

There are places you cannot see until you are inside them. Tiscali is one of them. The Nuragic village does not sit on a summit or along a coast, but hidden inside a doline, an enormous chasm opened by the collapse of the limestone roof of Monte Tiscali, in the heart of the Supramonte between Oliena and Dorgali. For centuries it remained invisible to those passing below, protected by the rock and by the difficulty of reaching it.

It can only be reached on foot. There is no road leading up there: from the Lanaittu Valley you take a steep, rough path, once trodden by charcoal-burners, that climbs among holm oaks and junipers for about an hour and a half. It is a walk that demands legs and attention, but it is precisely this effort that keeps the crowds away. When the path finally crests the rim of the doline, the village opens up beneath you all at once, and it is an effect that is worth every step.

Inside the chasm, in the shadow of the walls, remain the ruins of the dry-stone huts, some circular, others more squared off. You can make out different phases of construction, a sign of long occupation. The light filters down from above and shifts through the day, illuminating now a wall, now the floor of the hollow. There are no showy fences or bulky signs: admission is paid in cash to a guide who watches over the site, because up there the phone signal is patchy and there are no cash machines.

Tiscali is the opposite of fast tourism. Here you do not arrive by car, snap a photo and leave again: you have to earn the place, to know it with your body. That is why it remains a destination for the few, even though it lies just a few kilometres as the crow flies from the more famous Gorropu Gorge.

It should be tackled with good shoes, plenty of water and in the cooler hours, avoiding the height of summer. Spring and autumn bring the right temperatures and a soft light. Those seeking a quiet alternative to Sardinia's more trodden attractions will find here ancient stone, wild nature and the rare pleasure of a place that still hides itself.

Getting there

Tiscali can only be reached on foot, with a demanding trek of about two hours across the Supramonte: the paths start from the Lanaittu Valley (in the territory of Oliena) or from the Scala di Surtana (towards Dorgali). By car you reach the car parks from which the paths begin by leaving the Oliena-Dorgali provincial road; there is no public transport to the trailheads, so a car is necessary and it is best to rely on a guide. The reference airports are Olbia and Cagliari.

Practical guides for Cagliari

• Where to stay in Cagliari
• What to see in Cagliari
• Where to eat in Cagliari
• How to get to Cagliari