Trekking in the Foresta Umbra of the Gargano

There is a paradox that makes the Foresta Umbra one of the most fascinating destinations in the South: it lies just a handful of kilometres from the busiest beaches of Apulia, yet the bathers who crowd Vieste, Peschici and Mattinata rarely climb this high. The sea draws everything, and this green cathedral of beeches and yews remains in the shadow, literally. And yet it is one of the oldest and most precious cores of Italy's ancient beech forests, so much so that it has been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The forest

The forest occupies the heart of the Gargano National Park, on the inland side of the promontory, where the altitude and the humidity of the sea create a surprising microclimate. Here grow beeches you would not expect so far South, alongside monumental yews and hollies, some among the oldest of their species in Europe. Walking beneath the high canopies, you have the feeling of being in a Central European forest, not a stone's throw from the Adriatic.

The trails

The natural starting point for exploring it is the Foresta Umbra Visitor Centre, with its small nature museum, its little lake and its fallow-deer enclosure. From here several marked trails branch off, of varying length and difficulty, letting you build a tailor-made itinerary. The shorter, flat routes cross the beech wood around the little lake and are suitable for everyone; the longer ones venture towards the monumental specimens and the inner clearings, where it is easier to spot roe deer and, with luck, traces of the park's wildlife. A classic reference for the most imposing trees is the Sentiero dei Tassi (Yew Trail), dedicated precisely to these giants.

On the whole this is trekking of modest difficulty: the elevation changes are gentle, the surface is the soft floor of the wood, and the shade of the canopies makes the walk pleasant even on the hottest days. This is not high mountains, but rather a slow walk among the trees, where the value lies in the silence, in the play of filtered light and in the age of what surrounds you. Those wanting to go further can link several trails and turn the day into a broader loop.

How to get there

Getting there requires a car: the Foresta Umbra is crossed by the roads connecting Vieste and Monte Sant'Angelo to the Gargano hinterland, and the Visitor Centre is an easy landmark to reach. Once on site you move exclusively on foot along the marked trails. It is worth checking in advance on the opening hours of the Visitor Centre and its services, which follow the park's seasonality.

When to go

The best period is undoubtedly the shoulder seasons. In spring, between April and May, the undergrowth reawakens and the forest shows off a thousand different greens; in autumn, in October, the beeches turn to gold and copper and the atmosphere becomes almost magical. These are also the months when seaside tourism languishes or has not yet begun: those who make it here find the trails almost to themselves. Summer, by contrast, is crowded by the sea but cool in the wood, an interesting option for those seeking shelter from the heat, though the magic of the shoulder seasons remains unbeatable.

A practical tip: bring hiking shoes with a reliable sole, because after rain the beech-wood floor can become slippery, and dress in layers even in summer, since beneath the canopies the temperature drops noticeably. Get a trail map at the Visitor Centre and set out early in the morning: in the first hours the light among the trunks is at its most beautiful, and the chances of encountering the park's wildlife are much higher. Leave the sea for the afternoon: the Foresta Umbra deserves the fresh head and slow pace of the morning.