The Lago della Duchessa loop in the Monti della Duchessa

Just a few dozen kilometres as the crow flies from Rome hides a mountain lake that very few people know. Lago della Duchessa is a small sheet of water of glacial origin, set in a high-altitude basin among the limestone ridges that mark the border between Lazio and Abruzzo, within the Monti della Duchessa Nature Reserve, straddling the provinces of Rieti and L'Aquila. Despite its closeness to the capital, the crowds do not come here: the altitude and the demanding trails keep casual tourism away and leave room for those who really walk.

The trail

The most popular access starts from the Lazio side, near Cartore, a small locality at the gateway to the reserve. From here a path climbs the Val di Fua, threading through beech woods and rock walls before rising decisively towards the basin that cradles the lake. The arrival is theatrical: after the final steep push the landscape opens and the lake appears all at once, lying in a grassy plain ringed by peaks, with horses and cattle grazing that in summer bring the meadows to life. From up there you can admire the main summits of the group, and those who are well trained can complete a loop by climbing the surrounding ridges and returning by a different route, enjoying even wider panoramas over the massif.

The charm of Lago della Duchessa lies in the contrast between its geographical closeness to the city and the sense of being in a remote world. The basin is a high-mountain Apennine environment, with cropped grass, pale rock and a silence broken only by the wind and the cowbells. It is a place also bound up with local tales and legends, which add to its aura of somewhere out of time. And yet, precisely because it requires a serious climb, it remains visited above all by aware hikers and not by hit-and-run tourism.

Getting there

To get here a car is best, since the trailheads lie along inland roads far from the main towns; the Cartore area is the most convenient reference on the Lazio side, reachable from the Borgorose area. The hike to the lake is not technical, but it is long and with significant elevation gain: it should be tackled with good legs, mountain footwear and careful management of water and time. The full ridge loop adds difficulty and requires experience, orientation skills and care on the more exposed stretches. Those looking for something quieter can stop at the lake and return the same way, still enjoying the basin.

When to go

The ideal period is summer, from June to September, when the snow has melted and the meadows are at the peak of their life, with the pastures active and the days long. June brings blooms and generous streams, September clear air and cooler temperatures for the climb. Out of season the basin can stay snow-covered for a long time and the trails become treacherous. Though a stone's throw from Rome, the lake escapes the crowds because it is no trivial stroll and because it lacks the services and the fame that draw mass tourism: you only get here with a bit of effort.

A practical tip: bring enough water from the very start, because reliable springs are scarce along the route, and count on heat in the lower section and cool wind at altitude, with an extra layer in your pack. Set off early, especially in summer, to avoid the afternoon thunderstorms typical of the Apennines and to enjoy the lake in the quietest hours. And remember that you are in a nature reserve: respect the grazing animals, leave no trace and leave this hidden corner exactly as you found it. It is the care of those who visit it that keeps it a wild and uncrowded place, even a stone's throw from the capital.

Practical guides for Como

• Where to stay in Como
• What to see in Como in 2 days
• Where to eat in Como
• How to get to Como