Slovenský raj: gorges and waterfalls of the Slovak Paradise

When people talk about Slovak mountains everyone thinks of the High Tatras, the sharp peaks that draw crowds of hikers from half of Europe. Few know that a little further south, towards the town of Spišská Nová Ves, opens a limestone plateau where the streams have cut the narrowest gorges: this is the Slovenský raj, the Slovak Paradise. Here you do not walk on panoramic ridges but inside the rock, climbing damp gorges where water thunders continuously and metal ladders, little wooden bridges and short fixed sections let you overcome waterfalls and drops that would otherwise be impassable.

The one-way rule

The peculiarity that makes this place different from everything else is the one-way rule. The main gorges are travelled only uphill: once you enter the canyon you climb from waterfall to waterfall up to the edge of the plateau, and to return you follow a dry path through the woods above the gorges. This avoids dangerous crossings on the wet ladders and gives the walk a slow, orderly rhythm, far removed from the crush.

The gorges

The most famous route is the Suchá Belá gorge, entered not far from the village of Podlesok. You climb between close walls, with a sequence of little ladders and walkways along the water drops, until you emerge onto the wooded plateau. Other gorges deserve just as much: the Kysel, the Piecky and the wild Veľký Sokol, longer and more demanding. On the opposite side of the park, near the village of Dedinky and the artificial lake of Palcmanská Maša, you reach the Dobšiná ice cave, a cavity with frozen formations that can be visited in summer. Another spot not to miss is the Tomášovský výhľad viewpoint, a rocky terrace overlooking the valley of the Hornád river, where you enjoy a broad view without having to enter any gorge.

How to get there

To get there it is best to base yourself in Spišská Nová Ves, well connected by train, or directly in Podlesok or Čingov, the two most convenient entrances on the northern side. From there you set off on foot. The equipped gorges require no mountaineering experience or technical gear, but you need fit legs, shoes with good grip and no fear of heights on the vertical ladders above the water. The difficulty is moderate: these are continuous climbs, tiring but within reach of a hiker used to walking, with modest but constant elevation gain. You can chain several gorges together in a day or opt for a short half-day loop.

When to go

The best time runs from late spring to early autumn. Between May and June the waterfalls are fuller of water and the woods a brilliant green; September brings clear days, pleasant temperatures and the first autumn colours. In high summer the park is busier with local holidaymakers, especially at weekends, so if you want quiet aim for weekdays and set out early in the morning. Bear in mind that some gorges close in winter and during periods of high water, when the ladders become dangerous: it is best to check on the spot which paths are open.

It is worth taking a few days to explore both sides of the park. The northern side, around Podlesok and Čingov, concentrates the best-known gorges and the easiest access paths; the southern side, towards Dedinky, is more secluded and offers panoramic walks over the plateau and along the lake. Moving from one side to the other you discover how much this small park can vary, alternating damp shady gorges with bright sun-beaten grasslands, beech woods and limestone cliffs.

A practical tip: in the gorges water splashes everywhere and your feet often end up soaked in the narrowest stretches. Reckon on getting your shoes wet and carry a change of dry socks to put on once out on the plateau. The cold of the water is surprising even on warm days. And since many paths are one-way, study the map carefully before setting out so you don't find yourself having to go back the wrong way down a crowded ladder.

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