Somiedo and the pastures of the bears

Green northern Spain has its famous destinations, from the Picos de Europa to the Atlantic beaches, but a little further west, in the heart of the Cantabrian Mountains, there is a valley that tourism has almost forgotten. It is the Somiedo nature park, in Asturias, a basin of rounded mountains, beech woods, pastures and glacial lakes where life still flows to the rhythm of sheep and cattle farming. Recognised as a biosphere reserve, Somiedo is above all the realm of the Cantabrian brown bear, of which this area is one of the last refuges in Spain. Seeing a bear is neither guaranteed nor the main aim, but knowing that you are walking in a territory where it still lives changes the meaning of the walk.

The brañas

The most characteristic mark of the landscape is the brañas, the high pastures where shepherds went up in summer with their herds. Here stand the teitos, stone huts with roofs covered in broom or grass, an ancient building technique that at Somiedo has been preserved as in few other places. Walking among these huts scattered across the meadows, some still in use, is like leafing through a book of rural history in the open air. The village of Veigas is one of the places where the teitos can best be seen grouped together.

The lakes

The most beloved hiking destinations are the lakes. The Lagos de Saliencia form a chain of glacial mirrors set among the mountains, reached by a ridge route of great scope; along the same slope lies the Lago del Valle, the largest in the park, at the bottom of a valley you climb on foot starting from the village of Valle de Lago. The most convenient bases for exploring are the main town of Pola de Somiedo and the small hamlets scattered on the slopes, from which the paths branch off.

How to get there

Getting there takes a bit of determination: Somiedo is off to one side of the main axes, reached by car climbing the valleys from the centre of Asturias, and public connections are rare. It is precisely this isolation that explains why it has remained so peaceful. On site you move on foot along marked itineraries of varying difficulty. The walks towards the lakes are moderately demanding: steady climbs on mountain paths and at times uneven ground, with elevation gains to tackle with good legs but without technical difficulties. There are also shorter strolls among the brañas, suitable for those who want a gentle walk, and longer routes for those seeking a whole day at altitude.

When to go

The best period runs from late spring to early autumn. May and June dress the meadows in flowers, the streams are full and the days lengthen; September brings clear air, the first colours of the beech woods and a deep quiet. The Atlantic climate must be reckoned with: rain and fog can arrive in any month, and at altitude conditions change quickly. Crowds, in any case, are rarely a problem. Only the odd summer weekend brings some people to the most famous lakes; on weekdays and out of season you often walk in solitude, crossing more cows and horses than hikers.

A practical tip: spring and autumn are the times when the bears are most active on the slopes, so if you are interested in wildlife watching bring binoculars and devote the first light of dawn or the last of evening to scanning the slopes calmly from afar, without ever trying to approach. Dress in layers and always pack a waterproof jacket, because here sun and rain alternate within the same day. And allow yourself the time to stop in a hamlet and talk with the shepherds: the culture of the brañas is as alive as the landscape.