Braga, the Portuguese Rome of Baroque Staircases and Secret Gardens

Portugal's oldest city

Braga is one of the oldest cities on the Iberian Peninsula, founded by the Romans as Bracara Augusta more than two thousand years ago. Portugal's religious capital and seat of the country's oldest archbishopric, it is a place where the sacred and the profane coexist naturally: Baroque churches and Art Nouveau cafés, solemn processions and lively university life, 18th-century gardens and contemporary street art.

Braga is easily reached by train from Porto (about one hour, frequent services) or by bus from Lisbon (about four hours). The nearest airport is Porto's Francisco Sá Carneiro, about 55 km away. Direct flights from Italy to Porto are available from several cities.

What to see in Braga

Bom Jesus do Monte

The monumental staircase of Bom Jesus do Monte is Braga's symbol and one of the masterpieces of European Baroque. A Via Crucis of 581 steps climbs through terraces decorated with fountains, allegorical statues, and chapels to the sanctuary at the summit. Each level represents a sense, a virtue, or a moment of the Passion. For those who prefer not to climb, the hydraulic funicular of 1882 — the oldest on the Iberian Peninsula still in operation — offers a scenic alternative. From the sanctuary esplanade, the view over Braga and the Cávado valley is superb.

Braga Cathedral (Sé)

The Sé de Braga is Portugal's oldest cathedral, founded in the 12th century and enriched over the centuries with Gothic chapels, Renaissance cloisters, and a magnificent Baroque organ. The cathedral's Tesouro-Museu holds one of the country's most important collections of sacred art, with gold chalices, processional crosses, and embroidered vestments. Do not miss the Capela dos Reis, where the parents of Portugal's first king lie at rest.

The Jardim de Santa Bárbara and the old town

The Jardim de Santa Bárbara is a hidden gem in the heart of the old town — a formal garden of box hedges, geometric flowerbeds, and seasonal blooms that creates a spectacular chromatic contrast with the ruins of the old archiepiscopal palace behind it. The pedestrianised historic centre is a pleasure for all the senses: palaces with azulejo façades, antiquarian bookshops, craft shops, and historic cafés such as A Brasileira.

The Santuário do Sameiro and other sanctuaries

A few kilometres from Bom Jesus, the Santuário do Sameiro is Portugal's second most important Marian pilgrimage site after Fátima. Less touristy and more intimate, it offers wide views across the Minho region. The path between the two sanctuaries, through eucalyptus and pine woods, is about an hour's walk.

What to eat in Braga

Braga is one of Portugal's finest cities for food, with a tradition that blends convent cooking and dishes from the Minho.

- Bacalhau à Braga: salt cod baked with potatoes, onion, eggs, and black olives, dressed with generous olive oil. Every family has its own recipe.

- Papas de sarrabulho: a bold dish from the Minho tradition — a porridge of pig's blood with veal, chicken, and cornbread. Not for the faint-hearted, but those who dare are rewarded.

- Pudim Abade de Priscos: a caramelised pudding of egg yolks, sugar, port wine, and pork lard (yes, lard). A 19th-century monastic recipe that is the very essence of Portuguese convent pastry.

- Vinho verde: the young, lightly sparkling wine of the Minho is the ideal companion for local dishes. Worth trying at the quintas of the region.

When to go

Braga is pleasant year-round, but the best months are April, May, June, September, and October. Braga's Semana Santa (March–April) is one of Portugal's most spectacular religious celebrations, with night-time processions of hooded figures bearing candles. São João (23–24 June) transforms the city into a popular festival of bonfires, music, and the plastic hammers with which the bracarenses playfully tap one another in the streets.

Beyond religious tourism

Braga is far more than its reputation as a city of churches. It is a young, creative university city with a buzzing food scene, music and arts festivals, and a quality of life that makes it one of Portugal's most liveable places. To visit it is to discover a different Portugal, far from the clichés of Lisbon and Porto, rooted in history but looking firmly towards the future.