Peaks of the Balkans: the cross-border loop of the Accursed Mountains

In the heart of the Dinaric Alps, between Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro, winds one of Europe's most fascinating and still little-trodden treks: the Peaks of the Balkans. It is a loop linking three countries as it crosses the mountains known as the Albanian Alps or Accursed Mountains, a rugged chain of limestone peaks, deep valleys and shepherds' villages where life flows as it did decades ago. Its relative solitude is no accident: to walk it you need border-crossing permits and you rely on small family-run guesthouses, conditions that keep mass tourism away.

The route

The route is circular and can be started from various points, but some of the most used bases are Theth and Valbona on the Albanian side. The famous crossing between these two valleys, over a mountain pass, is one of the best-loved and most spectacular stages of the entire loop, with the long descent towards the Valbona valley between imposing walls. From there the walk continues into Kosovo, touching areas of high pasture and scenic passes, and then on to Montenegro, where you cross uplands, forests and small pastoral settlements before closing the loop. Along the way you sleep in villages and mountain pastures, guests of families who offer a bed and home-cooked meals: an experience that is as integral to the journey as the mountains themselves.

Nature and hospitality

What makes this trek unique is precisely the interweaving of wild nature and human encounter. You walk in a genuine high-mountain environment, with significant elevation changes and passes to overcome every day, but in the evening you enter worlds of authentic hospitality, where the languages and cultures of the three countries mingle. It is a slow journey by definition, measured in days and in footsteps, not in kilometres covered in a hurry.

How to organise it

To tackle it you need to plan ahead. The full loop requires several days of walking and good fitness, because each stage involves substantial climbs and descents on terrain that can be demanding; it is not a technical climbing route, but it is a serious mountain crossing that calls for legs, familiarity with elevation gain and the ability to find your way with maps and tracks. It is essential to obtain the permits needed to cross the borders between Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro, a procedure that must be started before departure, often with the help of local agencies. Many choose to rely on guides or packages that arrange permits, overnight stays and luggage transport; the experienced can travel independently, but always after careful preparation.

When to go

The right time is summer, from July to September, when the passes are clear of snow, the guesthouses are open and the climate at altitude is pleasant. July and August offer the longest and most stable days, September a quieter atmosphere and already-autumnal colours on the high pastures. Outside this window many lodgings close and the passes can remain snow-covered. Even in peak months, however, the Peaks of the Balkans stays far from overcrowding: the need for permits, the high-altitude stages and the absence of large accommodation naturally select those who walk it, keeping it a bastion of slow, respectful tourism.

A practical tip: devote time to arranging the border permits and book the guesthouses in the busiest periods, because beds in the villages are limited. Carry cash in the local currencies, because electronic payments are rare along the way, and count on temperature swings with layered clothing. Above all, travel with a spirit of adaptation: the strength of this route lies in the hospitality of the mountain families, and repaying it with respect and curiosity is the best way to cross these three borders on foot. Let yourself be surprised by the home-cooked meals, the shepherds' stories and the silence of the passes: it is these details, even more than the summits, that make the loop of the Accursed Mountains unforgettable.