The Kom–Emine traverse across the central Balkans

There are long traverses that have made the fortune of whole Alpine regions, and then there is the Kom–Emine: a ridge walk that cuts across Bulgaria from west to east along the entire Stara Planina range, the Balkan proper, the one that gave the peninsula its name. It is the Bulgarian section of the European E3 trail, running from the summit of Kom, near the Serbian border, to Cape Emine on the Black Sea, and despite the scale of the project it remains practically unknown outside the Balkans. The reason is not technical difficulty, but the lack of promotion, of polished tourist services and of the international word of mouth that fills other long-distance trails.

The route

The route is traditionally walked from west to east. You start from the summit of Kom, above the town of Berkovitsa, and follow the main ridge through some of the finest areas of the range. The heart of the traverse is the Central Balkan National Park, where the trail skirts the walls and cirques of the Botev area, the highest peak of the Stara Planina. Further west you pass through the great historic passes such as Petrohan, while towards the centre the route touches the Shipka Pass, a symbolic place of Bulgarian history with its monument on the crest. Heading east the mountain softens, the altitudes drop and the final days lead gently down to the coast, where the trail ends at Cape Emine, on the edge of the Black Sea.

Difficulty and terrain

It is a long traverse, to be tackled over many consecutive days, and precisely for this it demands continuity of legs rather than technical moves. The terrain is mainly ridge hiking: long stretches over summit meadows, woods, the odd sharp climb towards the main peaks and wide sections exposed to sun and wind. The altitude is not extreme, but the cumulative elevation gain day after day makes itself felt, and the weather on the crest can change rapidly. Signage exists and in many stretches is maintained by the local alpine clubs, but the quality varies, so up-to-date maps and GPS tracks remain indispensable.

A strength, rare in this part of Europe for such a little-frequented trek, is the presence of mountain huts along the route. They are often simple structures, run according to a well-established Bulgarian hiking tradition, that allow you to break up the stages without having to carry full camping gear. It is still wise to count on a certain degree of self-sufficiency, because not all the huts are always staffed or stocked, and the distances between one and the next can be long.

Getting there

To reach the starting point you generally rely on Sofia, well connected, from which you reach Berkovitsa and the Kom area. At the other end, the finish near the Black Sea is served by the coastal resorts, handy for the return. Along the route several passes and towns at the foot of the crest allow you to join or leave the trail, which makes it possible to tackle the traverse in stages, over several trips, choosing the sections best suited to your form.

When to go

The best period runs from early summer to the end of August, when the crests are clear of snow and the huts most active. Even in peak season solitude is almost guaranteed: you will meet shepherds, the odd Bulgarian hiker and little else, far from the crowds of far more famous trails. This isolation is the charm of the Kom–Emine, but it demands caution, because rescue is not around the corner and the stretches between one base and the next are lonely.

A practical tip: study the water-supply points and the huts stage by stage in advance, and do not take it for granted that you will find shops on the crest. Set off with food supplies for several days, layers against the cold and rain even in high summer, and consider tackling first the central sections of the Central Balkan National Park, the most spectacular, if you do not have time for the whole traverse.

Practical guides for Como

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• Where to eat in Como
• How to get to Como