Chiessi: the white cliff on Elba's west coast, and the Roman wreck offshore

On Elba's western tip, a hamlet of the municipality of Marciana, Chiessi looks out to sea from a white cliff unusual for the island: a smooth, pale rock face at the centre of the settlement, with a small pebble beach just as white below it. It's one of Elba's most isolated corners, reached only by narrow roads winding down to the coast, just north of the neighbouring hamlet of Pomonte.

Off Chiessi, at a depth of about 46 metres, lies a 1st-century Roman wreck discovered by chance in 1966: the ship, dated to around 70 AD, was carrying roughly 7,000 amphorae of garum, olive oil and wine. Today it's a destination for experienced divers, while those who stay on the surface can enjoy the same coastline that has sheltered the wreck for two thousand years: little developed, without large tourist facilities.

South of the village opens Cala di Santa Maria, a more intimate cove. Tourism here is niche, geared more toward water sports like windsurfing than equipped beaches — no surprise it remains one of the island's quietest spots even at the height of the season.

Because of its out-of-the-way position, it's worth arriving unhurried: the roads are narrow and winding, not well suited to those in a rush or to bulky campervans.

Getting there

Chiessi is about 14 km from Campo nell'Elba, on the western coast, and can only be reached by car or scooter along the road that hugs the island's west side.