Where to eat in Grosseto: Maremma cuisine between the centre and markets

Grosseto's cuisine is that of the Maremma: a land halfway between hills and sea, where farming tradition (game, mushrooms, pecorino cheeses) meets coastal produce just a few kilometres away. In the historic centre, within the Medicean walls, you'll find the most traditional trattorias, often family-run, where the dishes that best tell the story of the territory can be found: legume soups, grilled meats, Maremma-style tortelli.

For a more direct taste of local produce, it's worth heading to the city's weekly neighbourhood markets, where producers from the surrounding countryside sell cheeses, cured meats and vegetables — a practical way to understand what people in the Maremma actually eat before sitting down at a restaurant. In the summer months, the proximity to the sea also brings fish dishes to the tables of the centre, although the deeper vocation of local cuisine remains land-based.

As in many mid-sized Tuscan towns, the best places aren't necessarily on the most central, touristy squares: it's worth walking a few blocks away from the heart of Piazza Dante to find the trattorias frequented mainly by locals.