Gola dell'Infernaccio: The Wildest Canyon in the Sibillini Mountains

The name leaves no room for ambiguity: Infernaccio — roughly, "Little Hell." The most celebrated gorge in the Sibillini Mountains owes its name to the sound of water bouncing off vertical limestone walls, creating a hellish roar during spring floods. But the name deceives: the Infernaccio is heavenly, one of those places where nature has worked for millennia with such intensity that it has produced something that seems deliberate, built with aesthetic intent.

The Route Through the Gorge

The trail through the Gola dell'Infernaccio starts from the provincial road between Montefortino and Rubbiano, at about 700 meters elevation. For the first two kilometers the path is easy, with small wooden bridges crossing the Tenna torrent multiple times and limestone walls rising progressively to 200 meters. Then the trail narrows, becomes slippery, and demands attention: a hand on the rock here, a jump on stones in the streambed there. The full round trip to the hermitage takes about three hours for a hiker with basic experience. Waterproof trekking boots are essential.

The Hermitage of San Leonardo

At the end of the gorge, clinging to the rock wall like a swallow's nest, stands the hermitage of San Leonardo: a medieval structure that still houses a hermit today. It is not a museum, not a tourist attraction: it is a place of solitary religious life, and the respect owed to someone who has chosen that life is an integral part of the visit. The hermit receives visitors, offers fresh water, and exchanges a few words. The small interior chapel preserves fourteenth-century frescoes of great expressive intensity.

The Wildlife of the Sibillini

The gorge is one of the most important wildlife corridors in the Sibillini Mountains. It is not unusual to encounter roe deer coming down to drink from the torrent in the early morning, and with considerable luck you may catch a glimpse of the Apennine wolf, which permanently inhabits the park's territory. Golden eagles nest on the gorge's high walls; cormorants ascend the Tenna from the Adriatic coast. For wildlife-watching enthusiasts, dawn is the best time: arrive at the trailhead parking before the sun illuminates the cliffs.

Information and Access

The gorge lies within the Sibillini Mountains National Park, about 10 kilometers from Montefortino. The trailhead parking is free; there is no ticket to access the trail. The best months are May-June (high water and wildflowers) and September (early autumn colors at altitude). Avoid after recent rain: the trail becomes dangerous. The nearest town for supplies is Montefortino, with a couple of trattorias serving Sibillini cuisine.