Castelluccio di Norcia: the windswept plateau beyond the bloom

Castelluccio di Norcia is not an easy destination to reach, and perhaps that is its secret. Perched at over 1,400 metres, the tiny village looks down on the Piani di Castelluccio, a vast plateau framed by the peaks of the Monti Sibillini. For a few weeks, between late June and early July, the flowering lentils tint the valley red, purple and yellow, and thousands of visitors arrive, cars queuing along the hairpin bends. But anyone seeking the true spirit of the place should choose another time.

Outside the bloom, the plateau reveals itself for what it really is: a sea of grass beaten by the wind, where the silence is broken only by the cowbells of the flocks and the flight of birds of prey. The grasslands seem never to end, and walking across them you feel small in a way that does you good. In late spring the green is vivid and the paths are almost deserted; in autumn the light turns golden and clear days offer views that stretch for miles.

The village still bears the scars of the 2016 earthquake, which hit it hard. Reconstruction is slow, and to visit Castelluccio today also means choosing to support a community that is holding on. A stop at a local business, buying the famous lentils directly from the producers, respect for the work in progress: small gestures that matter.

To truly enjoy this corner of Umbria it is best to set off early, bring suitable shoes and layered clothing, because at this altitude the weather changes fast even in summer. Leave the car behind and trust your feet: it is by walking, away from the most photographed spots, that the plateau tells its story of shepherds, wind and endless space.

Getting there

By car, climb the SS685 through the Monti Sibillini starting from Norcia, the main hub. From Rome, leave the A1 at Orte and continue on the dual carriageway towards Terni and Spoleto, then follow the signs for Norcia and Castelluccio. On weekends during the flowering season, access by car is usually regulated with compulsory shuttle buses, so it is worth checking before you set off; the reference airport is Perugia.

Practical guides

- Where to stay in Castelluccio di Norcia: sleeping between sky and wildflowers in the Sibillini Mountains