Marettimo: the end of the world in the heart of the Mediterranean

There are islands that exist outside of time, and Marettimo is one of them. The most distant of the Egadi Islands — forty minutes by hydrofoil from Trapani on good days, an hour by ferry — has remained unchanged for decades, immune to the building speculation that turned Favignana into a mass-market postcard. Fewer than seven hundred people live here year-round, and even in summer the village manages to maintain its human scale.

Caves, coves, and glass-clear waters

Marettimo's seascape is among the most pristine in the western Mediterranean. Grotta del Presepe, Grotta della Bombarda, Cala Nera: names that local fishermen have passed down for generations. Boat excursions are the only way to reach many of these inlets, and prices remain fair — a morning on a rubber dinghy with a local skipper runs about 25–35 euros per person. The water has a transparency that seems unreal: in certain spots you can see the seabed at fifteen metres as if through freshly cleaned glass.

The inland trails

Few people know that Marettimo is also an island to explore on foot. The trail climbing to Punta Troia Castle — a medieval fortress later used as a Bourbon prison in the 19th century — rewards with a view of the archipelago worth every effort. The route gains about 400 metres in elevation and takes a couple of hours. Lower down, on the slope above the village, lies the site of the Case Romane: a Roman military outpost, later associated with remains of a water cult and a Byzantine chapel from the Norman era.

Getting there and where to stay

Liberty Lines ferries depart from Trapani several times a day in summer. Booking in advance is wise, especially in July and August — not so much because of the island, which handles the load, but because of transport availability. Accommodation is deliberately limited: a handful of small hotels, some B&Bs, and holiday rentals. The restaurant Il Veliero, overlooking the little harbour, serves freshly caught fish — a fried anchovy platter with Sicilian panelle costs around 12 euros — and is frequented more by locals than tourists. The ideal season runs from May to June and September to October: the sea is already splendid, but the island breathes.