Marettimo: The Wild Egadi Island Where Time Stands Still

Marettimo, the last frontier of the Egadi

Of the three Egadi Islands, Marettimo is the one reached last and forgotten last. Further from the Trapani coast than both Favignana and Levanzo, this island of barely twelve square kilometres preserves a natural heritage that the Marine Nature Reserve protects with rigour: posidonia seabeds, sea caves and a mountain ridge that grazes 700 metres.

Those who come to Marettimo are looking for something different from the equipped beach. They seek silence, rock, clear water and the scent of wild rosemary along the trails. And they still find it, almost intact, today.

Getting there

Hydrofoils operated by Liberty Lines depart from Trapani (approximately 1 hour 15 minutes) along with Siremar ferries (approximately 2 hours 30 minutes). In high season there are 3–4 sailings a day; in low season this drops to 1–2. Booking in advance is advisable, especially on July and August weekends. Cars cannot be taken to the island, but they are not needed: Marettimo is explored on foot.

The borgo and daily life

The village is a handful of white and blue houses gathered around the harbour. There are no chain hotels, no resorts: hospitality comes from holiday rentals, small B&Bs and a few rooms let by fishing families. Booking ahead is essential — availability disappears quickly.

Restaurants can be counted on one hand, but the fish is always the catch of the day. Trapanese-style fish couscous is the signature dish: an Arab legacy that is still prepared here with the ritual of hand-worked semolina.

The trails: trekking between sky and sea

Marettimo's trail network is its hidden treasure. The main routes are three:

• Trail to Cala Bianca — easy, about 40 minutes. Descends to a cove of white pebbles with crystal-clear water. The trail is exposed to the sun: bring a hat and water.
• Trail to the Castello di Punta Troia — moderate, about 1 hour 30 minutes. Climbs to the Norman fortress perched on a rocky spur. Breathtaking views over the other Egadi islands and the Sicilian coast.
• Trail to Pizzo Falcone — strenuous, about 3 hours return. The island's highest point (686 m). The route crosses Aleppo pine and holm oak forests, with views that on clear days reach as far as Pantelleria.

All trails start from the village. There are no water sources along the routes: bring at least 2 litres per person.

The sea and the caves

The sea caves of Marettimo are among the most spectacular in the Mediterranean. The island boat tour (approximately 3 hours, bookable at the harbour, €25–35 per person) visits the Grotta del Cammello, the Grotta del Tuono and the Grotta della Bombarda. The water colours range from turquoise to deep indigo.

For snorkellers, the best spots are Cala Bianca, Lo Scalo Vecchio and the area below the Castello. Experienced divers can explore the Secca del Toro, a submerged pinnacle rich in gorgonians and Mediterranean barracuda. The local diving centre runs trips from April to October.

When to go

The ideal months are May, June, September and October. In July and August the island is busier (though it remains far quieter than Favignana), prices rise and accommodation fills up. In spring, rosemary and heather bloom along the trails, the water temperature rises gradually and the days are long without the scorching summer heat.

What to pack

• Trekking shoes with a grip sole (the trails are rocky)
• High-factor sun cream and a hat
• Mask and snorkel
• A windproof jacket for evenings and high-altitude walks
• Cash: ATMs and cards are not accepted everywhere

An island worth preserving

Marettimo has no nightclubs, no private beach clubs, no paved roads beyond the harbour. It is a place where the relationship with nature is direct and unmediated. The Marine Reserve enforces strict rules on fishing and navigation, and this has allowed the seabeds to maintain extraordinary biodiversity.

The hidden history

Marettimo is not only nature. The island preserves traces of ancient habitation: remains of a Roman settlement on the summit of Punta Troia and a small Byzantine church hidden among the rocks, testimony to the presence of Basilian monks in the early Middle Ages. The Castello di Punta Troia, now home to the Monk Seal Observatory, was a Bourbon prison and a Saracen watchtower. The path to reach it crosses a lunar landscape of pale rock and low scrub, with the wind carrying the scent of wild thyme.

In the evening, once the last hydrofoil has departed and only residents and the few tourists who have chosen to sleep here remain in the harbour, Marettimo reveals its deepest essence. The fishermen's boats light up at sea, cats stretch out on the quays, and from open windows comes the sound of a distant television. There is no organised entertainment, no events, nothing to distract from the silence and the starry sky. On an island free of light pollution, the Milky Way is visible to the naked eye.

Coming here means accepting an unwritten pact: take away only memories, leave only footprints on the trails. For those seeking the raw essence of the Mediterranean, far from mass tourism, Marettimo is one of the most authentic answers Italy can offer.