Trekking on Marettimo, the Most Remote of the Egadi Islands
Marettimo is the farthest and wildest island of the Egadi archipelago, made of nothing but trails and fishermen's houses, where the tourism that crowds Favignana never arrives. A paradise for those seeking walks by the sea and absolute silence.
Foto: trolvag (CC BY-SA 3.0) — Wikimedia Commons
The Egadi, off Trapani, are famous above all for Favignana, stormed in summer by those seeking its beaches and its azure coves. But at the western edge of the archipelago, the farthest from the coast, there is an island that lives to a different rhythm: Marettimo. Here there are no large equipped beaches or luxury hotels, but a small village of white houses overlooking the harbour, a network of ancient trails and a mountain plunging sheer into the sea. And it is precisely its remoteness that has kept it away from mass tourism.
The trails
Marettimo is made to be walked. From the village depart the mule tracks and trails that cross it in every direction. One of the most beloved routes leads to the Semaforo, the old signal station at the island's highest and most panoramic point, from which the eye takes in the whole archipelago and, on clear days, the Sicilian coast. Another trail leads to the Case Romane and the little Byzantine chapel, testimonies of an ancient past, immersed in the Mediterranean scrub. As you walk you cross pine woods, scents of rosemary and thyme, and look out over sheer cliffs where birds of prey soar.
The boat tour
Marettimo's sea is best discovered from the water. The boat tour around the island, run by local fishermen, is almost a must: it reveals a succession of sea caves with incredible reflections, among them the celebrated Grotta del Cammello and numerous other cavities carved by the waves, reachable only by sea. The swimming stops take place in pebble coves and transparent waters, far from the crowds. For those who love to walk, on the other hand, the day fills easily with the trails that climb from the village towards the interior and descend again to viewpoints overlooking the blue.
Getting there
To reach Marettimo you set off from Trapani on the hydrofoils serving the Egadi. Being the farthest island, the crossings are less frequent than to Favignana and Levanzo, and the sailing time is longer: it is best to check the timetables and to bear in mind that, in rough seas, connections may be cancelled. On the island you need no vehicle: cars are practically absent and you move only on foot in the village and along the trails, or by boat to explore the coast. Everything is compact and made for walking.
When to go
The ideal time is late spring, May and June, or September. In these months the climate is perfect for walking, with mild temperatures and trails scented by the blossoming scrub, and the sea is already, or still, warm enough for swimming. Above all, outside the two central summer months Marettimo stays quiet: even when Favignana fills up, here the visitors remain few, accommodation in the fishermen's houses is easier to find and the village keeps its authentic atmosphere, made of boats, nets and chatter on the harbour. In July and August the sun on the exposed trails becomes demanding and the island, though never as crowded as the others, loses a little of its stillness.
A practical tip: plan your excursions in the cooler morning hours, because many trails run uphill and with little shade, and always bring enough water, since there are no sources along the routes. You'll need trekking shoes with good grip for the stony, sheer stretches, a hat and sun protection. And book the boat and accommodation well in advance: on Marettimo the services are few and run by the locals, and in high season availability runs out quickly. Allow yourself the time to do nothing, to sit on the pier at sunset: that is the island's true rhythm. Plan to stay at least a couple of nights, because Marettimo reveals itself only to those who slow down: only by staying do you discover the life of the village, make friends with the fishermen, and understand that alternating a day of walking up high with a day of sea by boat is the best way to experience it. And when the village lights come on and the last hydrofoil has already left for Trapani, you'll realise you have arrived in one of the most distant and silent corners of the Mediterranean, a place that tourism has forgotten and that, precisely for this, keeps its charm intact.
Practical guides for Trapani
Practical info
When is the best time to visit Trekking on Marettimo?
The recommended time is May, June and September, when it is less crowded.
Where is Trekking on Marettimo?
Trekking on Marettimo is located in Egadi Islands, Sicily.
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