Linosa: The Volcanic Island of the Loggerhead Turtle

Linosa, the colourful volcano in the middle of the sea

Halfway between Sicily and Africa, Linosa is a speck of lava in the Strait of Sicily that few Italians could place on a map. Yet this island of barely five square kilometres hosts one of the most singular landscapes in the Mediterranean: three extinct volcanic cones covered in vegetation, black sand beaches, houses painted in vivid colours and one of the most important Loggerhead turtle (Caretta caretta) nesting colonies in Italy.

Linosa is not Lampedusa. It has none of its larger sister's white beaches, no resorts, none of the crowds. It is an island for those who want to truly disconnect.

Getting there

Siremar ferries depart from Lampedusa (approximately 2 hours 30 minutes), and in summer Liberty Lines hydrofoils also run (approximately 1 hour 15). From Porto Empedocle (Agrigento) the overnight ferry takes approximately 7 hours with a stop at Lampedusa. Sailings are not particularly frequent: in winter they may be reduced to 2–3 per week. Always check updated timetables and book well in advance for the summer months. Cars are not needed on the island: it is explored on foot or by bicycle.

The village with painted walls

The inhabited centre of Linosa is one of the most photogenic borghi in Italy, though almost nobody knows it. The houses are painted in ochre yellow, blue, pink and green, with contrasting doors and windows. This chromatic tradition is not a recent tourist initiative: it dates back to the nineteenth century, when the colours helped fishermen recognise their home from the sea.

Accommodation options are very few: some B&Bs, rental houses and a couple of small hotels. The cuisine is that of the Pelagie islands, dominated by fish: tuna, amberjack, swordfish. The Linosa lentil, a Slow Food Presidium, is the island's legume: tiny, dark, intensely flavoured.

The black beaches and the sea

All of Linosa's beaches are of volcanic origin, with dark sand and pebbles that contrast vividly with the turquoise water:

• Cala Pozzolana di Ponente — the main beach, fine black sand, easy access. This is where Caretta caretta turtles lay their eggs between June and August.
• Cala Pozzolana di Levante — more enclosed, with lava rocks and rich seabeds for snorkelling.
• Faraglioni — a rocky area on the north side, ideal for dives and scuba diving.

Snorkelling at Linosa is an exceptional experience: visibility frequently exceeds 40 metres and the fauna includes groupers, moray eels, octopuses and shoals of barracuda. The island's diving centre organises guided dives at the Secca di Linosa, one of the most celebrated dive sites in the central Mediterranean.

The Caretta caretta turtles

Linosa is the second most important nesting site in Italy for the Caretta caretta, after Lampedusa. Between June and August, females come ashore at night to lay their eggs. Volunteers from the local rescue centre monitor the beaches throughout the nesting period.

If you visit the island during this time, it is essential to follow the rules: do not use artificial lights on the beaches at night, do not approach fenced nests, do not leave litter. The hatching of the young, between August and September, is a spectacle that changes the way you look at the sea.

The volcanic trails

The island has three extinct volcanic cones reachable on short walks:

• Monte Vulcano (195 m) — the highest, about 45 minutes from the village. A full circular view over the entire island and the open sea.
• Monte Rosso — the red earth of the lapilli creates an almost Martian landscape.
• Monte Nero — the best-preserved cone, with the crater still clearly recognisable.

The trails are not precisely marked: downloading a GPS track in advance is useful. Bring water, sun cream and closed shoes.

When to go

The best months are May, June, September and the first half of October. July and August are hot and busier (in Linosa's context, busier means a few dozen more tourists). In spring the island is carpeted with yellow caper flowers and the sea is already warm enough for snorkelling. From November to March connections are infrequent and the weather can be windy.

Practical tips

• Drinking water is desalinated: bring a reusable water bottle
• There is no ATM on the island: bring enough cash
• Mobile coverage is limited: let those expecting you know in advance
• Book accommodation months ahead for the summer

Starry nights and the rhythm of the island

Linosa has no light pollution. At night, from the terrace of a B&B or the beach at Cala Pozzolana, the sky opens up in a way that those who live on the mainland have forgotten. The Milky Way is a dense, luminous band, and on August nights shooting stars can be counted in their dozens without even searching for them.

The rhythm of the island follows the sea and the seasons. Early in the morning the fishermen go out with their lamps; in the evening families gather in the piazza to chat under the streetlights. There is no hurry, no crowd, no noise. The only constant sound is that of the waves on the black lava and the Cory's shearwaters that on summer nights fill the air with their unsettling, ancient call — not unlike the cry of a child.

Linosa is a place where mass tourism has never arrived and, with a little respect, never will. For those in search of a primordial, volcanic and silent Mediterranean, it is one of the last Italian islands where it can still be found.