Ustica: The Black Pearl of the Tyrrhenian and Italy's First Marine Reserve

Ustica, the black volcano in the blue Tyrrhenian

Sixty-seven kilometres north of Palermo, Ustica rises from the sea like a block of dark basalt surrounded by cobalt water. The island, the remnant of an ancient submarine volcano, was for centuries a place of exile and political internment, too distant from the coast to interest mass tourism. This marginality has gifted it an exceptional natural heritage: in 1986 Ustica became the site of Italy's first Marine Protected Area, and its seabeds are today among the most studied and admired in the Mediterranean.

It is not a large island — you can walk the whole of it in a couple of hours — but the density of what it offers, above and below the waterline, is extraordinary.

Getting there

Siremar ferries depart from Palermo (approximately 2 hours 30) along with Liberty Lines hydrofoils (approximately 1 hour 15). In summer there are 2–3 sailings a day; in winter 1 a day, weather permitting. The island is car-free for non-residents: travel is on foot, by bicycle or on local minibuses. Book the ferry in advance for summer weekends.

The borgo with painted walls

The only inhabited centre climbs from Cala Santa Maria — the natural harbour sheltered from the winds — toward the summit of La Falconiera. The houses are low, with exteriors decorated by murals that tell the history and legends of the island. Walking through the alleys is like crossing an open-air art gallery.

The central piazza, with its bars and trattorias, is the island's evening drawing room. The atmosphere is that of a Sicilian village of the 1960s, free from the tourist pressure of the coastal resorts.

The seabeds: a diver's paradise

Ustica is universally considered one of the finest dive sites in the Mediterranean. The Marine Reserve is divided into three zones (A, B, C) with different levels of protection. The unmissable sites:

• Grotta dei Gamberi — a submerged cavity populated by red shrimp and yellow sea fans. A technical dive but unforgettable.
• Secca della Colombara — a submerged pinnacle north of the island, with enormous groupers accustomed to divers and shoals of barracuda.
• Scoglio del Medico — a vertical wall rich in red gorgonians, lobsters and moray eels. One of the most photographed sites in the Tyrrhenian.
• Grotta Azzurra — accessible even by snorkelling, with extraordinary light effects in the middle hours of the day.

There are several well-equipped diving centres offering dives for all levels, from baptism dives to technical outings. Snorkelling from the coast is already excellent: the reserve's B zone is freely accessible and the rocky seabeds teem with life.

The Underwater Archaeological Trail

Ustica boasts a unique experience in Italy: a marked underwater archaeological trail, visitable by snorkelling. Along the coast at Punta Gavazzi, waterproof panels anchored to the seabed illustrate the remains of a prehistoric settlement and Roman anchors. The water is 3–5 metres deep: a mask is all you need to explore it.

The land trails

The island has a network of trails covering the entire coastal perimeter and climbing toward the heights:

• Torre di Santa Maria and Rocca della Falconiera — easy, 30 minutes. Remains of a Bronze Age prehistoric village and a 360-degree panoramic view.
• Complete coastal trail — moderate, approximately 3 hours. Crosses cliffs, sea stacks, natural rock pools and Bourbon watchtowers.
• Punta Spalmatore — the area with natural pools carved into the lava rock. Ideal for swimming with children.

What to eat

Ustica's cuisine is Sicilian maritime cooking with its own particular touches:

• Ustica lentil — Slow Food Presidium, small and flavourful, cultivated on the volcanic terraces
• Octopus alla usticese — boiled and dressed with oil, lemon and parsley
• Pasta with sardines and wild fennel
• Island caponata with local capers

The restaurants are simple and genuine. The fish comes from local boats and is served without excessive elaboration.

Where to sleep

Hotels, B&Bs, holiday homes and a hostel. Capacity is sufficient but August fills up quickly. In June and September good availability can be found at reasonable prices.

When to go

The best months are May, June, September and October. In summer the island hosts the International Underwater Activities Festival (late June to early July), which draws enthusiasts from around the world. April is already pleasant for trekking, though the water is still cool for diving.

Recommended equipment

• Mask, snorkel and reef shoes (essential on lava rock)
• Trekking shoes for the coastal trails
• Biodegradable sun cream (we are in a marine reserve)
• A torch for evening walks (street lighting is minimal)
• A waterproof jacket for the hydrofoil crossing

The nightlife of the sea

At Ustica, night is not the moment when the sea stops — it is the moment when it transforms. The diving centres organise night dives that reveal a different world: lobsters emerging from their lairs, octopuses hunting, the fluorescent colours of nudibranchs under the torch beam. From the harbour quay, with a simple torch pointed at the water, you can watch squid and saddled bream pass by, drawn to the light.

For those who remain on land, the moonlit walk along the coastal path is an experience that reconciles you with silence. The absence of light pollution turns the sky into a natural planetarium: on clear August nights, during the Perseids, shooting stars can be counted in their dozens from the terrace of La Falconiera, with the sound of the sea as the only soundtrack.

Ustica is proof that protecting the sea works. Forty years of marine reserve have turned this island into a biodiversity laboratory where giant groupers approach snorkellers without fear. For those who love the sea in its most alive and intact form, Ustica has no rivals in Italy.