La Kalsa and La Cala: Arab courtyards in Palermo's old harbour

Most visitors to Palermo focus on the Quattro Canti, the Cathedral and the markets of Ballarò and the Vucciria. Few, though, truly lose themselves among the alleys that drop down towards La Cala, the old crescent-shaped harbour where the fishermen's boats once moored. Here the rhythm changes: the boats bob lazily, an elderly man mends his nets and the peeling palazzi gaze out over the water as if time had stopped.

The Kalsa

Just walk on towards the Kalsa, the quarter of Arab origin whose name comes from the settlement founded during Muslim rule, and you'll discover a maze of narrow streets and inner courtyards. It's these courtyards, often unnamed on the maps, that are the real treasure: half-open doorways reveal small courts with washing hung out, votive shrines, potted citrus trees and cats asleep in the sun. It's a domestic intimacy that mass tourism has yet to discover, one that asks only to be crossed with discretion.

What to discover

Walking without hurry, you'll come across churches and noble palazzi marked by time, some still scarred by the bombings of the Second World War, alongside artisan workshops and small bakeries. The Kalsa is also a living, working-class quarter, where it's worth buying bread and a slice of sfincione straight from the person who makes it, and swapping a few words in dialect.

When to go

To enjoy its quiet, avoid the middle of the day and visit at dawn or sunset, when the light slices through the alleys and the courtyards empty out. Walk with respect for the silence of the inhabited houses: these places are not a stage set, but the everyday life of Palermo that endures, authentic and understated.

Related guides: Sicily off the beaten track: hidden villages and destinations far from the crowds · Beyond Taormina: seaside villages of eastern Sicily off the beaten track · Eastern Sicily by train: Catania, Syracuse and the Val di Noto without a car.

Getting there

The Kalsa and the old harbour of La Cala lie in the heart of Palermo's historic centre and are best visited on foot, starting from the Foro Italico or Via Roma. The relevant station is Palermo Centrale, a short distance from the quarter. The airport is Falcone-Borsellino at Punta Raisi, connected to the centre by train and bus; those arriving by car enter the city from the motorway and leave their vehicle in the car parks near the port, since the area is largely pedestrianised.

Practical guides

• How to get to Palermo: flights, trains, ferries and cars
• What to see in Palermo in 2 days: itinerary through markets, mosaics and street food
• Where to stay in Palermo: neighborhoods, accommodation and practical tips
• Where to eat in Palermo: street food, markets and Sicilian cuisine guide