Skip Taormina: Castelmola, the Secret Perch Above Sicily

Castelmola: the secret balcony of eastern Sicily

Taormina is the queen of Sicilian tourism: the Greek Theatre, the panorama over Etna, Corso Umberto lined with boutiques. But it is also a town where in summer it becomes almost impossible to walk, where restaurants charge Costa Smeralda prices and where Sicilian authenticity has been buried under layers of souvenirs and tour buses. Yet all it takes is to look upward: at 529 metres above sea level, perched on a vertiginous peak, Castelmola looks down on Taormina with the serenity of one who knows they have the better view.

Why climb to Castelmola

Castelmola is a borgo of around 1,000 inhabitants that delivers everything Taormina promises but struggles to provide: spectacular views, an authentic atmosphere, genuine food and the feeling of discovering something that not everyone knows. From here you can take in the Ionian coast, snow-capped Etna, the bay of Giardini Naxos and, on clear days, the tip of Calabria. The belvedere of Piazza Sant'Antonio is considered one of the finest panoramas in all of Sicily.

What to see

- Piazza Sant'Antonio: the heart of the borgo, with a breathtaking viewpoint. The lava-stone paving reproduces a chessboard and is the perfect spot for a sunset aperitivo.

- Norman Castle: the ruins of the medieval castle are reachable with a short climb. From the top, the panorama spans 360 degrees: sea, volcano, mountains and Sicilian countryside.

- Chiesa Madre di San Nicolò: a sixteenth-century church with a Gothic-Catalan portal that tells the story of Aragonese rule in Sicily.

- Via scalinata Taormina-Castelmola: a medieval mule track connecting the two villages in about 45 minutes of climbing between olive trees, prickly pears and ever-widening views. It is the finest way to arrive: at every bend the vista expands.

- Museum of Arts and Traditions: small but carefully curated, it tells the story of the borgo's peasant and artisan life over the centuries.

Almond wine

Castelmola is famous throughout Sicily for its almond wine, a sweet and aromatic drink served cold as an aperitif. The most celebrated bar in which to try it is Bar Turrisi, a historic establishment whose interior décor is... decidedly eccentric and well worth discovering for itself (suffice to say it has become a tourist attraction in its own right). But almond wine is found in every bar in the borgo, each with its own secret recipe.

Where to eat

Castelmola's cuisine is that of the Sicilian mountain tradition, without the pretensions (or prices) of Taormina. Try the maccheroni alla norma with fried aubergine and salted ricotta, the pesce spada alla ghiotta with capers and olives, and for dessert the indispensable almond granita with brioche. A full lunch with house wine rarely exceeds 25 euros, compared to the 45–60 of an average Taormina restaurant.

How to get there

From Taormina, the provincial road climbs to Castelmola in around ten minutes by car (4 km of scenic hairpin bends). There is a car park at the entrance to the borgo (paid in summer). Alternatively, the walk up from Taormina's Porta di Catania takes about 45 minutes and is a magnificent experience. A minibus service connects the two villages in summer.

When to go

Castelmola is beautiful all year round thanks to Sicily's mild climate. Spring (March–May) is ideal for hiking and wildflowers. Summer is warm but the altitude always provides a little breeze. Autumn brings golden light and local produce festivals. Winter, with Etna snow-capped in the background, is spectacular for photography. Even August, when Taormina is unbearable, is manageable here.

Castelmola is proof that sometimes all it takes is a change of perspective — literally, climbing 400 metres — to find the authentic Sicily that mass tourism has erased elsewhere. It is not an alternative to Taormina: it is its complement, its privileged vantage point, the place where the journey slows and the horizon opens wide.