Instead of Portofino: Camogli, Liguria's Most Authentic Fishing Borgo

Camogli: where Liguria is still genuine

Portofino is a jewel set into the rock, no one can deny it. But it is also a borgo of 400 residents invaded by hundreds of thousands of tourists every year, where a coffee costs 8 euros and a plate of trofie costs 28. Just 15 minutes away by train — a single stop — Camogli offers the same Ligurian beauty in a setting where the words "fishing borgo" still have a real meaning.

The charm of the tall houses

Camogli owes its name, according to one of the most accepted theories, to "Ca' de Muggi" (houses of the wives), because women would watch for their fishermen husbands' return from the windows of the tall, colourful houses. These houses, painted in vivid shades of yellow, orange, red and pink, are the borgo's defining feature and create an unmistakable skyline when seen from the sea. Unlike Portofino, where many houses have become boutique hotels or private residences, in Camogli the shutters still open every morning and the washing on the lines is part of the landscape.

What to see and do

- Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta: facing directly onto the sea, with a surprisingly rich baroque interior and a polychrome marble floor.

- Castello della Dragonara: the medieval castle that dominates the harbour, now used for exhibitions and cultural events. The view from the ramparts is priceless.

- Abbazia di San Fruttuoso: reachable only on foot (a trail of about 2 hours from the centre of Camogli, beautiful but demanding) or by boat (20 minutes). The 10th-century Benedictine abbey in a cove inaccessible by land is one of the most memorable experiences in Liguria.

- Cristo degli Abissi: the famous underwater statue in the bay of San Fruttuoso, visible with a mask and snorkel on calm days, or on a scuba dive.

- Seafront promenade: the lungomare of Camogli, with its pebble beach and the fishermen's boats hauled ashore, is perfect for a sunset stroll.

Focaccia al formaggio

Camogli is the birthplace of focaccia al formaggio, a sublime creation: two paper-thin layers of dough filled with melted stracchino, crisp on the outside and molten within. You will find it in every bakery in the centre, but Revello on Via Garibaldi is an institution. Another unmissable specialty is the Sagra del Pesce in May, when fish is fried for everyone in a giant pan four metres in diameter in the main square. This is a historic event, not a tourist gimmick: it has been going since 1952.

The trails of the Portofino Park

Camogli is the gateway to the Parco Naturale Regionale di Portofino, but from its quieter side. While the trails starting from Portofino or Santa Margherita Ligure are crowded, those starting from Camogli towards San Rocco, Batterie and San Fruttuoso pass through unspoilt Mediterranean scrubland with spectacular views. The trail to the Batterie (former Second World War gun emplacements) is particularly evocative.

Getting there

Camogli is on the Genoa–La Spezia railway line: regional trains every 15–20 minutes, 30 minutes from Genova Brignole, 15 minutes from Santa Margherita Ligure. Just one stop before Portofino, but a world apart. By car, the motorway exit is Recco on the A12, then a few minutes along the coastal road.

When to visit

April–June and September–October are ideal. The Sagra del Pesce (second Sunday in May) is an experience not to be missed. Summer is busier but manageable. Camogli proves that the Ligurian Riviera still has borghi where the sea belongs to the fishermen, the focaccia is freshly baked and the sunset doesn't have an admission price.