Varese Ligure: Europe's First Organic Borgo in the Val di Vara

A perfect circle of medieval houses

Seen from above, Varese Ligure looks like a drawing: the houses of the historic centre form an almost perfect circle, a borgo rotondo with no equal in Liguria and few in all of Italy. This shape is no accident, but the result of sophisticated medieval planning: the dwellings were arranged in a spiral around a central square, creating a defensive structure that made the borgo a natural fortress without the need for imposing walls. Today that circle of stone and slate is the heart of a town that has chosen a different path — the path of sustainability.

In 1999, Varese Ligure became the first municipality in Europe to obtain ISO 14001 environmental certification and organic certification for almost all of its farms. Not a marketing exercise, but the fruit of a radical collective choice: energy from renewable sources, farming without pesticides, short supply chains. A quiet revolution in the heart of the Val di Vara.

What to see

The borgo rotondo and the historic centre

The borgo rotondo is the first place to explore. The medieval houses, with their slate roofs and sandstone façades, look out onto a circular path that converges on the market square. The arcades running along the sides of the square were the commercial heart of the borgo, where fairs drew merchants from all across the Lunigiana. Today they host shops selling local produce and a handful of craft workshops. The architectural effect is extraordinary: a sense of harmony and proportion that few medieval borghi can match.

The Fieschi Castle

Above the borgo rises the castle of the Fieschi, the powerful Genoese family that controlled the Val di Vara for centuries. The structure, with its circular towers and internal courtyard, has been restored and hosts cultural events. The view from the castle takes in the entire valley: a mosaic of meadows, woods, and watercourses that justifies the reputation of the Val di Vara as Italy's "greenest valley".

The medieval bridge and the Vara

The hump-backed stone bridge crossing the Crovana stream is one of the borgo's most photographed spots. Dating to the fifteenth century, it links the historic centre with the outer districts and offers a privileged view of the houses mirrored in the water. The Vara river, which gives the valley its name, flows close by and is suitable for swimming in several spots during summer: natural pools of crystal-clear water where locals cool off on the hottest days.

Sustainability and organic farms

Part of the experience of Varese Ligure is visiting the organic farms that surround the borgo. Several open their doors to visitors for tastings and guided tours: you can sample cheeses made from the milk of free-range cows, chestnut and acacia honey, and artisan cured meats. On the ridges above the village, wind turbines and solar panels powering the municipality are a visual reminder of the territory's green choice.

What to eat and drink

The table of Varese Ligure is a manifesto of its organic philosophy. The products are local, seasonal, and genuine:

- Val di Vara cheeses: from fresh to aged, produced from the raw milk of free-range cows and goats. The local caciotta is mild and buttery.

- Organic honey: chestnut honey (dark, intense, slightly bitter) and acacia honey (pale, delicate), both excellent.

- Testaroli: a disc of pasta cooked on the testo (a cast-iron griddle), then dressed with pesto or oil and Parmesan. An ancient dish from the Lunigiana tradition.

- Organic beef: the Val di Vara beef, raised outdoors without antibiotics, has a flavour that recalls times when the words "short supply chain" were unnecessary because it was the only supply chain that existed.

The borgo's restaurants are simple family-run trattorias where you eat well at modest prices. The wine is often from the Colli di Luni, white or red, produced in the hills between Liguria and Tuscany.

Getting there

Varese Ligure is reached by car from the eastern Ligurian coast: exit the A12 at Brugnato-Borghetto Vara and continue on the SP523 for about 30 minutes up the Val di Vara. From La Spezia the drive takes about 45 minutes. From the Emilian side, you can arrive via the Passo di Cento Croci (open April to November), a scenic Apennine pass connecting the Val Taro to the Val di Vara.

Public transport is limited: ATC buses from La Spezia with few daily runs. A car is strongly recommended.

When to go

May to October is the ideal period. Summer is cool compared to the coast (the borgo sits at 350 m altitude) and allows hiking in the surrounding Apennines. Spring, with meadows in bloom, is particularly beautiful. In autumn, the chestnut harvest and the grape harvest enliven the valley. The Organic Agriculture Fair (July) is the highlight event, with producers from across the region and tastings in the square.