Compiano: The Walled Borgo of the Val Taro Among Forests and Porcini

A borgo suspended between river and mountain

The Val Taro is one of those Apennine valleys that Italy's mass-tourism industry has completely overlooked. All the better for those who discover it: a succession of chestnut and oak forests, crystal-clear streams and borghi clinging to the ridges. Among these, Compiano is perhaps the most fascinating: a small walled town that commands the Taro river from the heights of a rocky promontory, with a castle that seems lifted from a medieval storybook.

We are in the province of Parma, just a few kilometres from the border with Liguria, in that part of the Apennines where Emilian and Ligurian traditions merge into a gastronomic and cultural whole that cannot be found elsewhere.

What to see in Compiano

The castle of the Landi marquises

Castello Landi is the heart of Compiano. Built from the ninth century onward and expanded in subsequent centuries, it is a powerful quadrangular structure with corner towers that dominates the valley. Its history is eventful: military fortress, noble residence, then prison, and finally — after careful restoration — a charming hotel. Yes, it is possible to sleep inside a genuine medieval castle, surrounded by walls with a thousand years of stories to tell.

Inside, the rooms preserve period furniture, frescoes and a collection of arms that traces the story of the Landi, the feudal family that dominated these valleys for centuries.

The Museo dei Mascalzoni

One of the most singular museums in Italy is right here: the Museum of Freemasonry and Garibaldian Relics, known locally as the "museum of rogues" for the swashbuckling stories it tells. Housed in the castle's underground rooms, it collects documents, mementos and objects linked to the Risorgimento and Masonic history of the Parma Apennines. An unusual visit that sheds light on little-known chapters of Italian history.

The walled borgo

Compiano is entered through a single gate in the walls, beyond which opens a maze of narrow alleyways and stone staircases. The houses are pressed close together, with flower-filled balconies and drowsy cats on windowsills. The walk along the walls offers breathtaking views over the Val Taro: the river winds through the forests far below, and on clear days the first Ligurian peaks are visible in the distance.

The parish church of San Giovanni Battista, with its Romanesque bell tower, and the oratory of the Santissima Annunziata complete the borgo's religious heritage.

The flavours of the Val Taro

The kingdom of porcini mushrooms

The Val Taro is universally recognised as one of Italy's foremost territories for the porcini mushroom. The porcino di Borgotaro has earned PGI status and is the undisputed protagonist of local gastronomy from September to November. Fried, sautéed, in risotto or raw in salad with shavings of Parmigiano: every restaurant in the valley celebrates it with devotion.

The mountain Parma table

Compiano's cuisine blends Emilian tradition with Ligurian influences, given the proximity to the sea:

- Anolini in brodo — small discs of pasta filled with braised meat, served in a clear, fragrant broth

- Torta d'erbe — a savoury pie filled with Swiss chard, ricotta and Parmigiano, a legacy of peasant cooking

- Wild boar stew — local game, slow-cooked with tomato and spices

- Spongata — a Christmas pastry filled with honey, dried fruit and spices, a living tradition throughout the province

To drink, the wines of the Colli di Parma or, as an alternative, a Ligurian Vermentino easily found here — we are only a step from the Riviera, after all.

Walks and nature

Compiano is an excellent starting point for hikes in the Apennine forests. The path descending to the Taro river is an easy, scenic walk, suitable for families. For the more energetic, the ridges above the borgo lead to spectacular views over the entire valley and, on clear days, as far as the sea. The area is rich in wildlife: roe deer, wild boar, buzzards and, with luck, the Apennine wolf.

How to get there

Compiano is reached from Parma in about an hour and twenty minutes along the Cisa state road (SS62) to Bedonia, then turning toward the borgo. From La Spezia, on the Ligurian side, the journey takes about an hour over the Cisa Pass. The nearest motorway exit is Fornovo di Taro on the A15. Public transport connections are limited: a car is recommended.

When to go

Spring (May–June) is ideal for woodland colours and mild temperatures. Autumn (September–October) is the magical season: foliage transforms the hills into a palette of reds and gold, and porcini mushrooms invade every menu. Summer is cool compared to the plain — Compiano sits at almost 500 metres altitude — and offers a perfect escape from the Po Valley heat. Winter is atmospheric though harsh, with the possibility of finding the borgo under snow.

Compiano is a place where the journey matters as much as the destination: the road that leads there, winding and panoramic, is already an experience in itself.