Secret Liguria: 10 Places That Aren't Cinque Terre or Portofino

Liguria is a thin sliver of land: 350 kilometers of coast with the hinterland just a kilometer from the sea. Cinque Terre and Portofino draw millions of visitors; the rest of the region — the western Ponente, Val Fontanabuona, Val d'Aveto, upper Val Trebbia — remains almost untouched. Here are ten places to seek out.

1. Camogli and San Fruttuoso

Camogli, just north of Portofino, is a former sailors' village lined with eight-story painted houses. From here you can catch a boat to San Fruttuoso, a Benedictine abbey nestled in a cove that can only be reached by sea (or on foot along the trail). One of the most poetic places in all of Liguria.

2. Western Liguria: Cervo, Cipressa, Perinaldo

In the Ponente, between Imperia and Ventimiglia, hilltop villages such as Cervo (home to the church of San Giovanni Battista, known as "Il Corallo"), Cipressa, and Perinaldo (birthplace of the astronomer Cassini) see far fewer visitors than the Levante. The coast is less dramatic, but the perched villages more than compensate.

3. Val Fontanabuona and its slate quarries

The Val Fontanabuona, tucked behind Chiavari, is the valley of slate. Historic quarries, a dedicated museum, and hiking trails weave through Uscio, Neirone, and Favale di Malvaro. Forty kilometers from Genoa, an agricultural world still very much intact.

4. Genoa's old town beyond Piazza De Ferrari

The historic center of Genoa is one of the largest in Europe (113 hectares of narrow caruggi). But tourism concentrates on Via Garibaldi (the Palazzi dei Rolli) and Piazza De Ferrari. The secret Genoa lives in neighborhoods like Boccadasse (a fishermen's marina), Prè (multicultural), and in the Val Bisagno.

5. Upper Val Trebbia and Torriglia

The Val Trebbia, which Hemingway once called "the most beautiful in Italy," lies a stone's throw from Genoa yet feels like Emilia. Torriglia with its castle, Lake Brugneto, and villages like Rovegno and Fascia offer trekking, canyons, and absolute stillness.

6. Cinque Terre in the low season

The Cinque Terre in July and August are simply overwhelmed. From November through March, without the crowds, they are still magical. The Sentiero Azzurro is partially open, and the villages (Vernazza, Manarola, Corniglia, Riomaggiore, Monterosso) empty out of day-trippers. Guesthouses cost half as much.

7. Val d'Aveto: the authentic Ligurian Apennines

The Val d'Aveto, at Liguria's easternmost edge, is the authentic Ligurian Apennines. Beech forests, Monte Aiona, Lago delle Lame. Small villages like Rezzoaglio and Santo Stefano d'Aveto (with its Malaspina castle). You get there via the SP586 from Chiavari — the Val d'Aveto has no direct rail link.

8. The Riviera del Ponente: Alassio, Laigueglia, Cervo

Alassio, with its famous "Muretto" and broad sandy beaches, is less fashionable than Portofino but caters to a more family-oriented crowd. Laigueglia has an intact old town (no building taller than three stories), and Diano Marina rounds out the trio. Ideal for those seeking the sea without pretense.

9. The Toirano caves

The Grotte di Toirano, a short drive from Albenga, are a karst complex with stalactites, underground lakes, and the tracks of prehistoric bears. The guided route takes about an hour and a half. Less famous than Frasassi, and every bit as evocative.

10. Ventimiglia and Grimaldi

Ventimiglia, the last Italian town before France, has a medieval old town on the hill (all too often skipped by transit travelers) and a bustling Friday market. In Grimaldi, the Balzi Rossi cave preserves the remains of Cro-Magnon man. Menton and Nice are just next door.

How should I plan my trip?

Weekend: Portofino/Camogli/San Fruttuoso, or Genoa's old town paired with the Val Trebbia. A full week: the Levante (Cinque Terre in the off-season plus Camogli) and the Ponente (Ventimiglia, Alassio, Cervo). The hinterland alone deserves a full week of its own.

When should I go?

May-June and September through mid-October. Summer: the coast is packed and prices double. Winter: Genoa and its old town are perfect to explore, and the hinterland falls into deep silence.