Hjørundfjord: Norway's Secret Fjord, Where Geiranger Never Arrived

The fjord that cruise ships never found

Geiranger has become a victim of its own success: in high season, thousands of cruise passengers flood the tiny village at the end of the fjord, turning one of the world's most beautiful places into a floating car park. But just fifty kilometres to the south, separated by a chain of mountains exceeding fifteen hundred metres, hides a fjord equally spectacular and almost entirely unknown: Hjørundfjord.

Thirty-five kilometres long, squeezed between the Sunnmøre Alps — jagged peaks that recall the Dolomites more than Norway — Hjørundfjord is the best-kept secret of Norway's western coast. Its waters are a green so deep they appear black; the villages on its shores count a few dozen inhabitants; the silence is broken only by the thunder of waterfalls plunging from the rock faces.

What to see

The village of Øye

At the innermost end of the fjord, Øye is a handful of houses dominated by the historic Hotel Union Øye, a white wooden hotel built in 1891 where Queen Wilhelmina of the Netherlands, King Oscar II of Sweden and Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany once stayed. The interior is a journey back in time, with rooms dedicated to illustrious guests and original period furniture. Even if you are not staying, the hotel restaurant is worth a visit.

The Sunnmøre Alps

The mountains surrounding Hjørundfjord are among the most spectacular in Norway: sharp peaks, exposed ridges and hanging glaciers. Slogen (1564 m) is the most coveted summit: the ascent from the fjord shore to the top is one of Norway's most scenic hikes, with a vertical rise of fifteen hundred metres in an almost sheer line. For the less adventurous, the trail along the fjord from Øye to Urke offers magnificent views without excessive difficulty.

Urke and the Saksa

The village of Urke, on the opposite shore of the fjord, is the starting point for the ascent of Saksa (1073 m), a sharp ridge offering a 360-degree view over Hjørundfjord and the Sunnmøre Alps. The final ridge is exposed and requires sure footing, but the reward is one of Norway's most breathtaking panoramas.

By boat on the fjord

The best way to appreciate Hjørundfjord is from the water. The local ferry connecting the villages on both shores is an experience in itself: sailing between rock walls fifteen hundred metres high, with waterfalls falling directly into the fjord, is something no photograph can convey. In summer, kayaks can be hired at Øye or Urke.

What to eat

• Fjord salmon — fresh, smoked or gravlaks (cured with dill, sugar and salt). Hjørundfjord salmon has a distinctive flavour tied to the cold, clean waters.
• Klippfisk — dried salted cod, Norway's great export to the Mediterranean. Here you will find it cooked in the local manner, with potatoes and cream.
• Riskrem — Norwegian rice pudding with cream and red berry sauce, a traditional dessert.
• Lefse — sweet Norwegian flatbread, thin and rolled with butter, sugar and cinnamon.

The Hotel Union Øye restaurant offers a tasting menu based on local ingredients that is worth the journey in itself. For simpler meals, Urke has a small café.

How to get there

Hjørundfjord is not served by major infrastructure, and that is precisely its appeal. The nearest airport is Ørsta-Volda (HOV), with flights from Oslo. From there, allow 45 minutes by car to Øye. Alternatively, Ålesund (AES) is about 2 hours by car. The ferry from Standal to Sæbø crosses Hjørundfjord and is an unmissable experience. There is no reliable public transport: a car is indispensable.

When to go

From June to September for hiking and kayaking, with temperatures between 12°C and 20°C and endless days. July is the warmest month but also the busiest (relatively: we are talking about a few hundred people). September offers extraordinary autumn colours and almost total solitude. Ski mountaineering in the Sunnmøre Alps, between March and May, attracts a small group of devotees who know the secret. Hjørundfjord is not a place for everyone — it is for those who seek beauty in its purest, untamed form.