Nusfjord: The Fishing Village in the Lofoten That Reine Kept Secret

A harbour that time has protected

While Reine conquers the covers of travel magazines, just thirty kilometres to the south-west there exists a village that has kept its soul as an Arctic harbour entirely intact. Nusfjord, nestled in a narrow, sheltered bay on the island of Flakstadøy, is one of the best-preserved fishing villages in all of Norway. Its rorbuer — the traditional red fishermen's cabins — look out over water so still it resembles a slate mirror, and the midnight sun in summer ignites them in an impossible red.

Here you will find no queues at car parks, no crowded restaurants. Nusfjord has remained what it was in the 1800s: a handful of wooden houses clinging to the rock, a quay where stockfish is still laid out to dry, and a silence broken only by the cry of gulls and the lapping of waves against granite boulders.

What to see in Nusfjord

The historic village

The centre of Nusfjord is an open-air museum. Entry to the historic village requires a small contribution that funds the upkeep of the original buildings. Stroll among the old blacksmith's workshop, the cod warehouse (where you can watch the stockfish-drying process), the merchant's house and the small white wooden church from 1907. Every building recounts a chapter of the harsh lives of Arctic fishermen.

Hikes into nature

Trails depart from the village and climb into the surrounding mountains. The most accessible leads to Neslandsvatnet lake, a crystal-clear basin ringed by dwarf birches and mosses. For the more adventurous, the ascent to the ridge above the village rewards you with a vertiginous view over the entire fjord and the outer islands. In summer, the alpine meadows fill with Arctic wildflowers: yellow buttercups, pink campion and purple lupins.

Fishing and life on the quay

If you visit Nusfjord between February and April, you will witness the season of Arctic cod — the skrei — which migrates each year from the Barents Sea to the Lofoten to spawn. Local fishermen head out at dawn and return with their catch, which is immediately processed and hung out to dry on the wooden racks, the hjell, that dot the landscape like abstract sculptures.

What to eat

The cuisine of Nusfjord is that of the Arctic sea: essential and powerful. Do not miss:

• Stockfish (tørrfisk) — cod dried in the Arctic wind for months, eaten in pieces as a snack or softened and cooked in soups. The flavour is intense, concentrated, with notes of hazelnut.
• Fiskesuppe — Norwegian fish soup, creamy and rich, made with fresh cod, potatoes, carrots and sour cream.
• Skillingsbolle — Norwegian cinnamon buns, perfect with a hot coffee after a walk in the wind.
• Brunost — Norwegian brown cheese with a sweet caramel flavour, served in thin slices on crispbread.

The Nusfjord Arctic Resort has a restaurant serving dishes based on local fish, but the best way to eat is to cook in your own rorbu the fish bought directly from the fishermen.

How to get there

Nusfjord lies on the island of Flakstadøy, in the Lofoten. The nearest airport is Leknes (LKN), reachable by flights from Bodø. From Leknes, Nusfjord is about 25 kilometres away, a half-hour drive through spectacular scenery. Alternatively, you can fly to Bodø and take the ferry to Moskenes (about 3.5 hours), from where Nusfjord is 20 minutes by car. The Hurtigruten, the historic Norwegian coastal steamer, calls at Svolvær and Stamsund; from there you can hire a car.

There is no regular public transport to Nusfjord: a hire car is virtually indispensable in the Lofoten.

When to go

Every season has its appeal. From June to July the midnight sun never sets and temperatures reach 12-15°C: the ideal period for hiking. February-March offers the magic of the northern lights and the skrei season, with temperatures between -2°C and 3°C. September brings autumn colours and the first auroras. Avoid November, the darkest and windiest month.

Where to stay

The restored rorbuer of the Nusfjord Arctic Resort are the only accommodation in the village: historic wooden cabins with modern interiors, heating and views over the harbour. Book well in advance for summer. Alternatively, you will find lodging in Ramberg or Fredvang, 10-15 minutes away by car.

Nusfjord is the kind of place that makes you understand why the Lofoten became famous, while offering you that authentic, solitary experience that Reine has long since lost. Here the wind, the sea and the light are still the true masters.