Instead of Reykjavik: Akureyri, the Capital of Iceland's North

Why choose Akureyri over Reykjavik

Reykjavik has become one of Europe's most visited capitals, with cruise ships unloading thousands of tourists a day into its small historic centre. Prices have skyrocketed and the intimate atmosphere that once made Iceland special has been lost among souvenir shops and tour operators. But travel north and you rediscover the true essence of this extraordinary land.

Akureyri, with its roughly 19,000 inhabitants, is Iceland's second city and the gateway to a wild and barely frequented north. Here the traffic lights have a heart where the red circle would normally be, the world's northernmost botanical gardens bloom in summer, and whales swim in the fjord below town. This is the Iceland you dreamed of before Instagram turned it into a theme park.

What to see in and around Akureyri

The city itself deserves a full day: the Akureyrarkirkja church commands the centre with its modernist lines, while the Lystigarður Botanical Garden astonishes with over 7,000 species defying the Arctic climate. The main street, Hafnarstræti, preserves colourful wooden houses and welcoming cafés.

But it is the surroundings where Akureyri truly shines:

- Goðafoss waterfall — the "waterfall of the gods", just 50 km away, is as spectacular as Gullfoss but with a fraction of the visitors

- Lake Mývatn — a unique ecosystem of surreal lava formations, natural hot springs and incredible birdlife

- Húsavík — the true European whale-watching capital, an hour's drive away

- Ásbyrgi — a horseshoe-shaped canyon that legend attributes to the hoof of Sleipnir, Odin's horse

- Dettifoss — Europe's most powerful waterfall, reachable in a day trip

The Diamond Circle: the alternative to the Golden Circle

While all the tourists drive the Golden Circle from Reykjavik, the Diamond Circle is the north's own scenic route: 260 km linking Akureyri, Húsavík, Ásbyrgi, Dettifoss and Lake Mývatn. The difference? Nearly empty roads, no tourist coaches and landscapes that take your breath away with no queue for a photograph.

Northern Lights without the crowds

From September to March, Akureyri is one of the best places in the world to watch the Northern Lights. Less light pollution than Reykjavik and a more northerly position increase the odds considerably. Many guesthouses offer an "aurora wake-up call" service so you never miss the show.

How to get there

Domestic flights from Reykjavik with Icelandair take just 45 minutes, or you can drive Route 1 in about 5 hours while enjoying the scenery. In summer the midnight sun means you can drive at any hour.

Excursions and adventures

For those who love adventure, Akureyri is an exceptional starting point. Horse-riding excursions on Icelandic horses — the native breed famous for its fifth gait, the tölt — cross lava landscapes and boundless meadows. Rafting on the Jökulsá á Austari river offers thrilling rapids in a spectacular canyon. In summer, boat trips on the Eyjafjörður fjord reach the island of Hrísey, the "pearl of the fjord", where ptarmigan walk calmly along the village streets.

Where to eat

The restaurant Strikið offers modern Icelandic cuisine with views over the fjord. Rub23 serves sushi and grilled dishes with supremely fresh fish. For a warming soup in an authentic setting, Bautinn has been the local reference for decades. Prices average 15–20% lower than the capital.

When to go

Summer (June–August) is ideal for the midnight sun, hiking and whale watching. Winter brings the Northern Lights and skiing at Hlíðarfjall, Iceland's most important ski resort. Avoid the transitional months (April–May) when the weather is at its most unpredictable.

Culture and local life

Akureyri has a cultural life that is remarkable for its size. The Hof Cultural Centre hosts concerts, exhibitions and theatrical performances in a modern building overlooking the fjord. The Akureyri Art Museum exhibits contemporary Icelandic artists in a building that marries traditional architecture with Scandinavian design. Nonni's House, the birthplace of writer Jón Sveinsson, tells the story of 19th-century Icelandic life.

The local community is warm and welcoming: the town-centre cafés — such as the legendary Bláa Kannan (the blue jug) — are gathering places where Icelanders and travellers mingle over a cup of piping hot coffee. Christmas in Akureyri is particularly magical: the 13 figures of the Jólasveinar (Iceland's "Christmas lads") animate the streets, and lights reflected in the snow create a fairy-tale Nordic atmosphere.

For sports lovers, the geothermal pool Sundlaug Akureyrar is a must: outdoor pools at different temperatures, slides, and the chance to swim in the open air even as snow falls. Admission costs just a few euros, and the pool is the heart of Icelandic social life — this is where the most genuine conversations happen.

How much you save

Iceland is never cheap, but Akureyri costs noticeably less than Reykjavik. Accommodation starts at €80–100 a night for a guesthouse, versus €150–200 in the capital. Local tours cost 20–30% less, and eating out is more accessible. Above all, the value of the experience is incomparable: here you are a traveller, not a tourist in a queue.