Seyðisfjörður: Iceland's Rainbow Fjord, Where Art Meets Arctic Silence

A Rainbow Painted at the Bottom of a Fjord

Eastern Iceland is the least visited part of the island — most tourists concentrate on the Golden Circle and the south coast, leaving the east to its solitary magnificence. And it is here, at the end of a narrow, deep fjord ringed by twelve-hundred-metre peaks, that one of Iceland's most enchanting villages hides: Seyðisfjörður.

You recognise it by the rainbow street: a small road painted in the colours of the rainbow that runs from the blue wooden church down to the harbour, and has become one of the symbols of contemporary Iceland. But Seyðisfjörður is far more than a photo opportunity: it is a village of seven hundred souls with a surprising arts scene, a legacy of nineteenth-century Norwegian wooden houses, and a fjord landscape that literally takes your breath away.

What to See

The Blue Church (Bláa kirkjan)

The small sky-blue wooden church, built in 1922 in Norwegian style, is the visual heart of the village. From its foot begins the famous rainbow street (Regnbogagata), which during the LungA festival comes alive with performances and installations. The church hosts classical music concerts in summer — the acoustics of the wood and the silence of the fjord create an unforgettable atmosphere.

The Norwegian Houses

Seyðisfjörður was founded in the nineteenth century by Norwegian fishermen and merchants who brought their own architectural traditions with them. The wooden houses painted in vivid colours — yellow, red, green, sky blue — are identical to those found on the Norwegian coast, a piece of Norway transplanted to Iceland. Many have been restored and now house galleries, artists' studios and cafés.

The Technical Museum (Tækniminjasafn Austurlands)

The east Iceland technical museum, housed in an old harbour warehouse, tells the story of telecommunications in Iceland: it was here that the first transatlantic submarine telegraph cable from Europe arrived in 1906, connecting Iceland to the world for the first time. The museum is small but fascinating, with original telegraph equipment and a section dedicated to herring fishing.

The Waterfalls and Hiking

The fjord of Seyðisfjörður is ringed by waterfalls. The most spectacular are the twenty-five cascades that follow one another along the road descending from the Fjarðarheiði pass to the village — a route that in itself is worth the journey. For hikers, the trail to the abandoned village of Vestdalur follows the fjord shore through a landscape of rare beauty: green meadows, Arctic flowers and waterfalls plunging from the rocky walls.

The LungA Festival

Every July, the LungA festival transforms Seyðisfjörður into the centre of Icelandic contemporary art: installations, music, performances, workshops and exhibitions flood the village for a week. It is Iceland's most creative festival, with an intimate, experimental atmosphere that draws artists from around the world.

What to Eat

• Plokkfiskur — Icelandic fish stew made with cod or haddock, potatoes and onion. Arctic comfort food at its finest.
• Harðfiskur — wind-dried fish served with butter. A protein-rich snack that Vikings carried on their voyages.
• Skyr — the Icelandic dairy product, similar to yogurt but technically a fresh cheese, creamy and slightly tart. With wild blueberries it makes a perfect breakfast.
• Kjötsúpa — Icelandic lamb soup with root vegetables, warming and nourishing.

The Nordic Bistro is the village's main restaurant, with dishes based on local fish and Icelandic lamb. Kaffi Lára - El Grillo Bar is the gathering point for the artistic community, with craft beers and live music.

Getting There

Seyðisfjörður is in eastern Iceland. The nearest airport is Egilsstaðir (EGS), just 25 kilometres away (30 minutes by car over the Fjarðarheiði pass — note: the pass can be closed by snow from October to April). From Reykjavik, the domestic flight to Egilsstaðir takes 1 hour. By car from Reykjavik: about 10 hours via the Ring Road (Route 1). The Smyril Line ferry from Denmark and the Faroes docks at Seyðisfjörður — it is Iceland's only international ferry port.

When to Go

From June to August for the seemingly endless days (the midnight sun lasts from mid-June to mid-July), the LungA festival and hiking. Temperatures between 8°C and 15°C. September for the northern lights and autumn colours (limited but intense). In winter the mountain pass can be closed and the village cut off from the world — atmospheric but demanding. Seyðisfjörður is the kind of place that changes those who visit it: the silence of the fjord, the impossible Arctic light and the creativity of the artistic community produce an alchemy that is not easily forgotten.