Kampot: the city of pepper and sunsets where Cambodia slows down

Kampot is a drowsy little town in southern Cambodia, overlooking a river that flows slowly toward the sea. It is known for its pepper — considered the finest in the world, grown on the slopes of Bokor — but beyond that it remains a secret the Cambodians keep to themselves.

The riverfront and colonial architecture

Kampot's centre is a handful of blocks of French and Chinese shophouses facing the Praek Tuek Chhu river. The atmosphere is that of a Luang Prabang that is even smaller and even slower. The sunset from the riverfront — when the sky turns orange and the fishing boats return — is one of the most beautiful in Southeast Asia, and it costs nothing.

The pepper plantations

Kampot pepper has been awarded Protected Geographical Indication — the first Cambodian product to receive it. The plantations (La Plantation, Sothy's, Starling Farm) can be visited free of charge or with a small donation. You walk between the rows, smell the fresh pepper (green, red, black, white) and understand why this little grain is different from all the others: intense, floral, with a slight hint of mint.

Bokor and the caves

Bokor National Park, 40 kilometres from the centre, is home to Bokor Palace — a 1920s ruined hotel-casino on the summit of a fog-shrouded plateau. The nearby caves of Phnom Chhnork and Phnom Sorsia contain Buddhist temples hidden inside limestone caverns — light filtering from above illuminates golden statues in the darkness.

How to experience Kampot

By motorbike or bicycle along the country roads toward the sea (Kep is 25 minutes away, famous for its pepper crab). The restaurants along the river serve fresh fish with Kampot pepper and lok lak. Guesthouses cost 10–15 dollars a night. Ideal period: November–March (dry). From Phnom Penh: 3 hours by bus.