Frontone, the Marche Castle That Nobody Has Discovered Yet

Frontone appears on a hilltop like a medieval engraving against the sky: the square keep rises at over 700 metres, visible from the hairpin bends of the road climbing from Cagli, and around it the village descends in terraces with the understated geometry of places built to endure, not to be beautiful. Beauty arrived anyway, as it does when things are done for practical reasons.

The Castle and Its History

Frontone Castle was probably built in the twelfth century and enlarged by the Brancaleoni in the fifteenth, the same family that governed much of the Pesaro Apennines. The structure is in good condition: the keep, corner towers, part of the perimeter wall and the internal cistern are open to visitors. Inside there is a permanent exhibition of medieval weapons and objects. Admission is 3 euros; in summer, historical re-enactments and concerts are held in the inner courtyard. The castle's position — on a spur commanding three valleys at once — explains its medieval strategic importance.

The Village and the Pesaro Apennine Landscape

Frontone has about 400 inhabitants and extends below the castle following an altimetric logic: the oldest houses at the top, the newer ones lower down. Nothing is artificially picturesque: it is a real village, with cars parked in front of doors, aerials on rooftops, cats on windowsills. The surrounding territory is characterised by the succession of hills and valleys typical of the Umbria-Marche Apennines: turkey oak woods, sunflower and wheat fields, pastures where sheep graze with bells.

The Trattoria and Mountain Cuisine

Frontone has a single trattoria that alone is worth the journey: mountain cooking without compromise, with handmade pasta, wild boar stew, crescia with cheese and a cellar of local wines. Prices belong to thirty years ago: a full meal with wine does not exceed 22–25 euros. The trattoria is open at weekends and by reservation on weekdays; in summer it is always open for castle visitors. Calling ahead is always advisable.

Pairings and Itinerary

Frontone is about 20 kilometres from Cagli and 40 from Fabriano, making it a natural stop on a Marche Apennines itinerary that could include the Furlo Gorge, Acqualagna for truffle, and Pergola for the Museum of the Gilded Bronzes (home to the Cartoceto Bronzes, the only gilded quadriga from the Roman era preserved in the world). The best months are April–May and September–October; in summer the area is cool compared to the coast.