The Monte Cucco loop among Umbrian caves and high plateaus

The Umbria people usually visit is made of art-filled villages and gentle hills. But there is a mountain Umbria, green and stern, that almost no one seeks out: it is the Umbria of Monte Cucco, on the Umbrian-Marche Apennines, near Gubbio and the border with the Marche region. Here a regional park protects ancient beech woods, upland grasslands, sinkholes and one of Italy's most important karst systems, with a cave that drops for hundreds of metres and is considered among the deepest in the country. It is a land loved by local hikers and cavers, but off the mass-tourism routes: you walk in the silence of the woods and the high plateaus.

The summit

The heart of the park is the peak of Monte Cucco, a rounded summit that reaches around one thousand five hundred and sixty metres and offers a vast panorama over the Apennines, as far as the valleys of the Marche on one side and inland Umbria on the other. The climb passes through dense beech woods and then opens onto high-altitude grasslands where animals graze and where, in summer, the wind moves the tall grass. The mountain is also known among free-flight enthusiasts, who make use of the currents on its open slopes.

The cave

Another emblematic place is the Grotta del Monte Cucco, one of the deepest and most extensive karst cavities in Italy, explored by generations of cavers. Part of it is equipped for organised visits, while deep exploration remains reserved for expert cavers: even just glimpsing this underground world makes you understand the dual nature of Cucco, mountain above and labyrinth below.

The reference village is Sigillo, at the foot of the massif, from which you climb up towards the park; not far away is Costacciaro, another village tied to the mountain and a traditional base for those exploring the caves. In the surroundings it is worth seeing the Valle delle Prigioni and the springs that feed the streams, while further down the valley the Sentino river flows, in a cool, shady setting ideal on hot days.

The classic Monte Cucco loop combines the climb through beech woods, the ridge with the summit and the return across the plateaus and valleys, on a network of well-marked trails that lets you choose shorter or longer routes. You cross different environments within a few hours: the deep woods, the summit meadows dotted with sinkholes, the panoramic points over the Apennines. It is a loop that repays the effort with a great variety of landscapes.

Getting there

To get here a car is best: you reach the area from the road linking Gubbio to Fabriano, turning off towards Sigillo or Costacciaro, and from there you climb up to the equipped areas and the trailheads. Public transport serves the valley-floor villages but not the interior of the park, so the car is the most practical solution for moving between the various access points.

When to go

The best period runs from late spring to early autumn: May and June bring beech woods of a brilliant green and meadows in flower, while September offers clear air and woods beginning to change colour. In these months the climate is cool and suited to walking for a long time, and the park stays quiet, visited mainly by local hikers: on weekdays it is easy to cross paths with very few people. High summer can be hot in the valleys but pleasant at altitude, while winter brings snow and frost to the upper parts.

A practical tip: in the mountains the weather changes quickly and on the open ridges the wind can be strong, so always carry an extra layer and a rain jacket even if you set off in sunshine. If the cave interests you, ask beforehand about the guided visits and their opening periods, because they are not always available, and never venture into the cavities alone: the beauty of Cucco is enjoyed safely by staying on the marked trails.

Practical guides for Gubbio

• Where to stay in Gubbio
• What to see in Gubbio in 2 days
• Where to eat in Gubbio
• How to get to Gubbio