The Monte Autore Loop in the Monti Simbruini

There is a mountain an hour from Rome that most Romans have never climbed. It is called Monte Autore and it dominates the Monti Simbruini, the long Apennine chain that forms the natural border between Lazio and Abruzzo. Despite its closeness to the capital, this regional park lives in a kind of anonymity: everyone races towards the sea or towards the more famous Abruzzo parks, and the Simbruini remain a secret kept by hikers and a few devotees. And yet here are some of the most beautiful and ancient beech woods in the central Apennines.

The ascent

Monte Autore is among the highest peaks of the chain, and its ascent has become a classic for those who know these mountains. The most convenient starting point is the Campo dell'Osso area, above Monte Livata, the small mountain resort above Subiaco. From here the marked trails venture into the beech woods and climb gradually towards the summit grasslands. Along the route you come across the Sebastiani refuge, a historic reference point for hikers, where it is worth stopping before tackling the final stretch to the summit.

At the summit

The final climb to Monte Autore leaves the wood and opens onto broad grassy crests, from which the gaze ranges over the whole chain, towards the valleys of inland Lazio and, on clear days, all the way to the mountains of Abruzzo. At the summit stands a small sacred shrine, a traditional destination for pilgrims too. The descent can follow the same route or close in a loop through other valleys and clearings, crossing the beech woods that in autumn offer extraordinary colours. Among the park's treasures are also stands of ancient beeches recognised for their naturalistic value.

Difficulty and access

In terms of effort, the Monte Autore loop is an excursion of medium difficulty: the trails are well marked, but the overall elevation gain and the length require fitness and a steady pace. There are no technical passages, but the summit crests can be windy and exposed. It is a full-day walk, to be tackled with the right margin of time and energy. For those seeking something shorter, the Campo dell'Osso and Monte Livata area offers numerous minor routes among the beeches.

Getting there is simple: from Rome you reach Subiaco and from there climb towards Monte Livata and Campo dell'Osso, where there are ample parking options. The trail network is marked, but it is still worth carrying a map or a track, because in the dense beech woods and in case of fog orientation can become treacherous. Once at altitude you move only on foot.

When to go

The ideal period is late summer and autumn: June offers flowering grasslands and long days, while September and October bring the clear air and the spectacular foliage of the beech woods, with the beeches ablaze in yellow and red. These are also the months when these mountains stay pleasantly empty: day-trippers' attention is elsewhere, and you can walk for hours meeting very few people. In winter the area comes alive for snow and cross-country skiing, but for trekking the shoulder seasons are unbeatable.

A practical tip: set out early, because on summer and autumn afternoons the crests of Monte Autore can be swallowed by fog and cloud rising from the valley, wiping out the panorama. Always check the mountain weather forecast and carry a windproof layer, because at the summit the temperature drops and the air stirs even on days that are clear in the valley. And treat yourself to a stop at the Sebastiani refuge: it is as much a part of the experience as the summit.

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