The Monte Conero Loop, Sheer Above the Adriatic

Monte Conero is the only rocky promontory in the whole central-northern Adriatic, a mountain that plunges sheer into the sea just south of Ancona. In summer its coves of white shingle are besieged and access is restricted, but those who climb the park's trails outside the beach months discover another Conero: fragrant woods, sheer cliffs and views that open onto the blue without a soul around. It is the same coast as the crowded postcards, experienced though in its wildest and most silent version.

The park

The promontory is protected by the Conero Park, crossed by a dense network of waymarked trails that let you build a complete loop. You walk inside a thick Mediterranean holm-oak wood, with junipers, strawberry trees and aromatic herbs scenting the air, and here and there the wood opens onto spectacular viewpoints. The summit of Conero offers a very wide view over the coast and, on clear days, as far as the Apennine mountains. Descending towards the sea you reach viewpoints overlooking the Due Sorelle, the famous twin sea stacks emerging from the water, and coves nestled between the rocks. Trails such as the one leading towards San Michele beach or the viewpoints above the bay let you alternate the wood with the breath of the open sea.

The natural base is the village of Sirolo, with its balcony over the Adriatic, its compact little lanes and the panoramic square from which the eye sweeps over the riviera. Not far off is Numana, an ancient landing place, and in the park's interior you come across the badia of San Pietro al Conero, a Romanesque abbey immersed in greenery right beneath the summit, an excellent starting point for the ridge itineraries. Between one climb and the next the landscape changes constantly: the dazzling white of the cliffs, the dark green of the holm-oak wood, the turquoise of the sea create contrasts that on their own repay the walk.

Getting there

To get there, Ancona station is the main reference point on the Adriatic line; from there line buses connect the city to Sirolo and Numana, though in low season the services thin out and it is best to check the timetables. By car you easily reach the villages and the car parks from which the trails set off, but bear in mind that in the summer months traffic and parking near the beaches are regulated. Once in the park you move exclusively on foot: the trails are well waymarked and can be combined into loops of different length and difficulty, some easy and scenic, others steeper on the stretches that descend towards the sea.

When to go

The best time is late spring, between May and June, or September. In these months the Mediterranean scrub is lush or still fragrant, the temperatures are ideal for walking and the sea offers its finest colours without the heat. Above all, you stay outside the peak beach months: in July and August the promontory is packed, beach access is limited and the trails busier, while in May, June and September you walk in peace, crossing paths with few hikers and enjoying the viewpoints in solitude. The wild coast of Conero is at its best precisely when the beaches are not yet, or are no longer, the visitors' only destination.

Practical tips

A practical tip: some trails descending to the coves are steep, exposed and in places prone to landslides, so always find out about their accessibility before setting off, because after rain or storms some stretches are closed for safety. Wear hiking shoes with good grip and do not rely on beach sandals even if your destination is a beach. Bring plenty of water and a hat, because on the exposed stretches the sun beats down hard even off-season, and set off early in the morning to enjoy the best light on the cliffs and to have the viewpoints all to yourself.

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