The Valnerina on foot: along the River Nera among hermitages and waterfalls

The Valnerina remains one of Umbria's best-kept secrets precisely because those who travel through the region almost always head for Assisi, Perugia or Orvieto. Here, instead, you descend into a narrow, deep valley carved by the River Nera, where the villages cling to the slopes and the green of the woods seems never to end. It is a place of water, stone and silence, perfect for those who want to walk slowly.

Along the River Nera

A good starting point is Scheggino, a small village overlooking the Nera with its canals and springs that feed old mills. From here you can follow the course of the river toward Sant'Anatolia di Narco and the beautiful complex of the Abbey of Saints Felice and Mauro, a Romanesque church isolated in the countryside, with carved reliefs that tell local legends. The walk along the water is almost flat and suits even those who are not experienced hikers.

Heading up the valley you reach Vallo di Nera, considered one of the most beautiful villages in Italy: a perfectly preserved medieval core of concentric lanes, arches and frescoes in the churches. From these heights the gaze embraces the whole valley and you understand why the Valnerina was for centuries a land of hermits. Farther north the valley leads toward Cerreto di Spoleto, Triponzo and the mouth of the gorges that climb toward Norcia and the Sibillini mountains.

Abbeys and castles

A detour worth the trip is the one toward Ferentillo, dominated by two facing castles, and above all toward the Abbey of San Pietro in Valle, a Lombard jewel set in the woods, with frescoes among the oldest in the region. Not far away, the hamlet of Precetto houses a small and curious collection of natural mummies. These are stops that can be combined over several days, alternating stretches on foot with short drives.

For those seeking rushing water, the Valnerina is also the valley of the Marmore Falls, at its southern end toward Terni, but the most intimate charm comes from the small springs, the fountains and the minor streams you meet while walking. The network of local trails and the sections of the cycle route that follows the Nera let you build tailor-made itineraries, always with the river as the guiding thread.

How to get there

How to get there: the valley runs along the Valnerina state road, which crosses it in full, connecting Terni to Norcia. By car it is the most convenient way to move between one village and another, since public transport is limited and designed above all for residents. Those arriving by train can get off at Spoleto or Terni and continue from there by road. Once in the villages, however, the best means remain your legs: the distances between villages and abbeys are often short and the trails well marked.

When to go

The best time is spring, between April and May, when the woods burst with green, the days lengthen and the water flows abundantly after the rains. October is also excellent, with the colours of the foliage and the crisp air. In these months the valley is almost deserted: tourism, already scarce in summer, is concentrated at most on weekends here, and you only need to move a little away from the main car parks to find yourself alone. This way you avoid both the summer heat and the winter harshness, when some high-altitude roads can be difficult.

A practical tip: bring a water bottle and comfortable shoes with a good sole, because many stretches follow dirt or damp paved surfaces near the river. Plan your meals ahead, because in the smaller villages there are few places to eat and they are often open only at certain times or on certain days; it is worth stopping in the local taverns to taste the black truffle and the valley's cheeses. And leave time for silence: the Valnerina is best appreciated by pausing on a bridge to listen to the Nera, rather than rushing from one stop to the next.

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