Vallo di Nera, the circular stone village above the river

You reach Vallo di Nera by climbing up the Valnerina, a narrow, green valley that most people only pass through on their way to the Marmore Falls or Norcia. Almost no one stops here, and that is precisely why the village has kept its original shape: a circle of limestone houses that spiral upwards to the highest church, following the contour of the hill. From below it looks like a single compact structure, a small fortress overlooking the river Nera.

Walking through its lanes means climbing up flights of steps, covered passageways and arches that link the houses together. Cars stay outside the walls, and within them what you hear most is the wind and the odd voice drifting from a window. The village churches hold cycles of late-medieval and Renaissance frescoes whose quality comes as a surprise in a place so small. It is somewhere to explore slowly, without rushing to see everything, letting the details tell the story: a worn threshold, a votive shrine, a kitchen garden suspended among the houses.

The surrounding countryside invites you to keep going on foot. Waymarked paths link Vallo di Nera to other small villages in the valley and drop down towards the river, through woods and old mills. This is a land of simple, honest produce: pulses, mountain cheeses, honey. Stopping to eat in one of the few taverns is the best way to give something back to a small community holding out against depopulation.

Visiting with respect means arriving unhurried, staying a night rather than spending an hour, buying from local producers and not treating the village as a postcard to photograph. In return, Vallo di Nera offers something rare: the genuine feel of a place that has never struck a pose for anyone.

Getting there

By car, take the SS685 Tre Valli Umbre road along the Valnerina and turn off onto the provincial road that climbs up to the village, where there is a large car park near the church. From Spoleto the road follows the valley along the course of the river Nera. The nearest railway station is Spoleto itself, from which you continue by bus or car; the reference airport is Umbria airport at Perugia.

Practical guides for Todi

• Where to stay in Todi
• What to see in Todi
• Where to eat in Todi
• How to get to Todi