The Dolomiti Lucane cycleway among the flying villages

There are mountains in Basilicata you would never expect. They are called the Dolomiti Lucane, and it is no joke: they are spires and pinnacles of sandstone that rise suddenly out of the greenery, with sharp, jagged shapes that really do recall the great walls of the North. And yet almost no one associates them with cycle tourism, and that is what makes them one of the most beautiful and silent places to pedal in southern Italy. There is no overtourism here: there are woods, rock, wind and two perched villages that seem suspended in mid-air.

The flying villages

The two names to keep in mind are Castelmezzano and Pietrapertosa. They are the absolute stars of this corner of Lucania, among the most beautiful villages in Italy, but above all they are 'flying' villages: built set into the rock, with houses sprouting between the spires as if they had grown from the stone. Pietrapertosa, in particular, is among the highest inhabited centres in Basilicata, and reaching it by bike is a feat that rewards you with every metre. Between the two villages runs the famous Volo dell'Angelo zip line, but for the cyclist the real attraction is the road that connects them, a scenic ribbon among the rocks.

The classic route moves precisely between these two villages and the wooded plateau that surrounds them, in the heart of the Gallipoli Cognato and Piccole Dolomiti Lucane Regional Park. You ride among beech and Turkey-oak woods, you pass viewpoints where the spires stand out against the sky, and you cross stretches of mountain road with very little traffic. The area is easily reached from villages such as Accettura or from the Basentana main road, which runs along the Basento valley and lets you approach by car with the bikes in tow.

Difficulty and terrain

It must be said clearly: this is not a route for those seeking flat ground. The Dolomiti Lucane are real mountains, made of steep, demanding climbs to reach the two villages, with elevation that piles up quickly. The surface is mostly paved and the roads are lightly trafficked, but the gradient calls for trained legs or, alternatively, a bike with good agile gearing or the help of pedal assist. The reward is spectacular descents and views that change at every bend. Those who want a gentler taste can limit themselves to the connecting stretch between the two villages and the viewpoints, avoiding the toughest ramps.

When to go

The best time runs from late spring to early autumn: May and September are perfect. In spring the woods are a vivid green and the air is cool even by day; in September the days stay long but the summer heat has passed. These are also the months when these villages, already sparsely crowded as they are, grow quiet again after any summer coming and going linked to the Volo dell'Angelo: pedalling in the shoulder months you have the road almost entirely to yourself. In high summer the heat in the valley floor can be intense, though at altitude the air stays more breathable.

Practical tips

A practical tip: plan your day so as to reach one of the two villages around lunchtime, to stop and eat something typical and recover your energy before tackling the second climb or the descent. And don't rush: here the whole point of the journey lies in looking around you, stopping at the viewpoints and letting the spires surprise you. Bring a light jacket even in summer, because at altitude and on the windy descents the temperature drops, and set off with enough water because between one village and the next the refreshment points are few.

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