The Nebrodi Cycle Route among beech woods and little lakes
On the Nebrodi Mountains, in Sicily, the island's most extensive forest is ignored beside the pull of Etna. Almost deserted pastoral roads among beech woods, horses and black pigs grazing freely: a slow mountain landscape where you meet almost no one.
Foto: Davide Mauro (CC BY-SA 4.0) — Wikimedia Commons
When you think of Sicilian mountains, only Etna comes to mind, and the rest vanishes. The Nebrodi Mountains, the wooded ridge that runs along the Tyrrhenian coast between Messina and the Madonie, stay off every route: no postcards, no crowds, just ridge roads where for hours you hear only the wind among the beeches and the cowbells of the herds. This is exactly their charm for anyone who pedals.
The Nebrodi Park
The heart of the itinerary is the Nebrodi Park, the largest protected area in Sicily, with the most extensive beech forest on the island. You usually set off from the foothill villages such as Cesarò or San Fratello, pastoral villages where the day is marked by work in the pastures. From here the roads climb towards the plateau and touch the small bodies of water that give this mountain its character: Lake Maulazzo, immersed in the beech wood of the Bosco di Mangalaviti, and the nearby Lake Biviere di Cesarò, a high-altitude wetland where waterbirds stop over and from which, on clear days, you can see Etna smoking in the distance. These are the points that set the rhythm of the journey, places where it is worth lingering.
Along the way the most memorable encounter is with the free-ranging animals: the Sanfratellano horses, a sturdy native breed, and the Nebrodi black pigs graze freely along the roads and in the woods. You may have to stop and wait for a herd to cross calmly: it is part of the experience, not a nuisance. All around, beech woods, upland pastures and clearings remind you that this is a green Sicily, far removed from the island's seaside image.
Difficulty and terrain
On a practical level, it is a mountain route and must be tackled with the right awareness. You pedal largely on low-traffic paved secondary roads and on pastoral dirt tracks and forest trails, so a gravel bike or a mountain bike is the most sensible choice; some stretches are also suitable for a sturdy touring bike. The elevation gain is demanding: you stay at altitude, with long climbs and continuous ups and downs between the passes, and few genuinely flat areas. It is not a route for those seeking a stroll, but anyone with trained legs is rewarded with views that range from the Tyrrhenian all the way to the Aeolian Islands.
To get there, the reference points are the Tyrrhenian coast between Sant'Agata di Militello and Capo d'Orlando, from which you climb up towards the mountain villages, or the inland side from Cesarò, reachable by car. Public transport links are scarce, so it is best to plan the approach well and consider the villages as bases for the nights.
When to go
The right time is late spring, around May, and early autumn, in September. In May the pastures are green and in bloom and the climate at altitude is cool and pleasant; in September the light softens, the woods begin to turn and the air grows clear again after the summer heat. These are also the months when you avoid the crowds entirely: while the Sicilian coasts are besieged, here in the mountains you find silence and clear roads. High summer, besides the heat, brings the risk of fires and humidity even at these altitudes; winter can bring snow and close the passes.
Practical tips
A practical tip: carry enough water and food, because between one village and the next the solitary stretches are long and the refreshment points rare. Make the most of them, though, to stop in the villages and seek out the local products, from black pork to pasture cheeses: supporting the small pastoral businesses is the fairest way to cross the Nebrodi. And set off early in the morning, when the light cuts through the beech woods and you are most likely to meet horses and herds in their calmest moment.
Practical guides for Udine
Practical info
When is the best time to visit The Nebrodi Cycle Route among beech woods and little lakes?
The recommended time is May and September, when it is less crowded.
Where is The Nebrodi Cycle Route among beech woods and little lakes?
The Nebrodi Cycle Route among beech woods and little lakes is located in Nebrodi Mountains, Sicily.
